Victorious Cowl

A Free Crochet Pattern

I love getting to try out new yarn. Don't You? My friend gifted me some yarn to try and I just had to make something with it. It was a lace weight super wash merino. I'm hooked. I loved working with it. and I'm pretty sure you will like making this cowl too. the merino works so well for cables because of it's elasticity.

Now about the cowl, it is one long piece with buttons on one end. The double crochet makes the button holes naturally. The pattern is intermediate, but it is a simple pattern if you are familiar with post stitches and and crossover stitches. It is very versatile it can be worn over the shoulder, or like a bandanna. When it is really cold I have even been know to where it as a head scarf.

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 Victorious Cowl 

Design by Julia Schwartz

Yarn : laceweight: 50% Superwash Faulkland British Merino wool, and 50% bamboo.

875 yds/100g skein.

Hook size: D

Notions: 6: ½ inch black buttons, yarn needle

Gauge: 7 in.  by 32 in. 8 stitches equal 1 in. 4 rows equal 1 in.

Pattern PDF Download 

This Pattern is a Free Pattern so keep scrolling down to find this Pattern. If you would like to purchase a pattern that is ads free and printer friendly you can do so through my Ravelry Store. The pattern is $3.00. The PDF has the full written instructions and pictures.

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Pattern Instructions

Row 1:Ch 4, 58 foundation dc. (59 stitches)

Row 2: Ch 3, 58 dc across. (59 stitches)

Row 3: Ch 3, dc in the next 3 dc, {fpdc in the next 3 stitches, dc in 2 dc} repeat {to} 3 more times, fpdc in the next 3 stitches, dc in the next 5 dc{fpdc in the next 3 bpdc, dc in the next 2 dc} repeat  {to} 4 more times, dc in the last 2 dc.

Row 4: Ch 3, dc in the next 3 dc, {bpdc in 3 fpdc of previous row, dc in next 2 dc}, repeat {to} 3 times, bpdc in the next 3 dc,  dc in the next 5 dc, bpdc in the next 3 dc, {dc in the next 2 dc, bpdc in the next 3 dc}, repeat {to} 4 times, dc in the last 4 dc.

Row 5: Ch 3, dc in the next four dc,{dc in bpdc, 1 fpdc in the same dc as the last dc just made, fpdc in next 2 fpdc, skip next 2 dc, fpdc in the next 3 fpdc, 1 dc in the same fpdc as the last fpdc  just made, dc in next 2 dc}, repeat  {to}once, dc in next bpdc, 1 fpdc in the samebp dc as the last dc just made, fpdc in next 2 fpdc, skip 1 dc, dc in next 3 dc, skip 1 dc, fpdc in the next 3 fpdc, {1 dc in same fpdc as the last fpdc just made, dc in next 2 dc, dc in fpdc, fpdc in same bpdc,  fpdc in next 2 fpdc, skip 2 dc,  fpdc in the next 3 fpdc}, repeat {to} once,  dc in fpdc just used, dc in last 4 dc.

Row 6: Ch 3, dc in the next 4 dc, {skip 3 fpdc, bpdc in next 3 fpdc, go back to skipped fpdc, bpdc in the 3 skipped fpdc, dc in the 4 un-worked dc} repeat {to} once,  1 dc in fpdc, bpdc in same stitch, bpdc in next 2 bpdc, skip 1 dc, dc, skip 1 dc, bpdc in next 3 fpdc, 1 dc in fpdc just used, {dc in next 4 dc, skip 3 fpdc, bpdc in next fpdc, go back to skipped fpdc, bpdc in the 3 skipped fpdc}, repeat {to}, dc in last 5 dc. (this row will have an extra stitch)

Row 7: Ch 3, {dc in the next 4 dc, fpdc in the next 6 bpdc} repeat {to}, dc in next 5 dc, dc in bpdc, fpdc in same bpdc just used, fpdc in next 2 bpdc, skip 1 dc, fpdc in next 3 bpdc, 1 dc in bpdc just used, dc in next 5 dc, {fpdc in next 6 bpdc, dc in next 4 dc} repeat {to}, dc in last dc. (this row will have an extra stitch)

Row 8: Ch 3, dc in next 3 dc, skip 1 dc,{3 bpdc in the next fpdc, dc in last fpdc just used and the next fpdc, dc in the next fpdc, bpdc in the fpdc just used, bpdc in the next two fpdc, skip dc, dc in next 2 dc, skip 1 dc} repeat {to} but don’t skip 1 dc in the end of the repeat, dc in next 3 dc, skip 3 fpdc, bpdc in next 3 fpdc, go back to skipped fpdc, bpdc in skipped fpdc, dc in next 5 dc, bpdc in next 3 fpdc, 1 dc in last fpdc just used, 1 dc in the next fpdc, bpdc in same fpdc just used, bpdc in next 2 fpdc, skip dc, dc in 2 dc, skip dc, bpdc in next 3 fpdc, 1 dc in last fpdc just used, 1 dc in the next fpdc, bpdc in same fpdc just used, bpdc in next 2 fpdc, skip 1 dc, dc in next 4 dc.

                                                                   

Row 9 : Ch 3, dc in the next 3 dc, {Fpdc in 3 bpdc of previous row, dc in next 2 dc}, repeat {to} 2 times, fpdc in the next 3 bpdc,  dc in the next 5 dc, fpdc in the next 6 bpdc, dc in the next 5 dc, fpdc in the next 3 bpdc, dc in next 2 dc, repeat {to} 3 more times, dc in last 2 dc.

Row 10: Ch 3, dc in next 3 dc, {bpdc in 3 fpdc of previous row, dc in next 2 dc} repeat {to} 2 times, bpdc in next 3 fpdc, dc in next 4 dc, skip 1 dc, bpdc in next 3 fpdc, dc in space between dc just used and 1 dc in next fpdc, bpdc in next 3 fpdc, skip 1 dc, dc in next 4 dc,{bpdc in next 3 fpdc, dc in next 2 dc} repeat {to}3 more times, dc in last 2 dc.

Row 11: Ch 3, dc in next 3 dc, {dc in bpdc, fpdc in bpdc just used, fpdc in next 2 bpdc, skip 2 dc, fpdc in next 3 bpdc, dc in bpdc just used, dc in next 2 dc} repeat {to} once, dc in dc, skip dc, fpdc in next 3 bpdc, dc in bpdc just used, dc, dc in next bpdc, fpdc in same bpdc, fpdc in the next 2 bpdc, skip 1 dc, dc in next 3 dc, {dc in bpdc, fpdc in the same bpdc, fpdc in the next 2 bpdc, skip 2 dc, fpdc in next 3 bpdc, dc in bpdc just used, dc in next 2 dc} repeat {to} once, dc in last 2 dc.

Row 12: Ch 3, dc in the next four dc, skip 3 fpdc, bpdc in next 3 fpdc, go back to skipped fpdc, bpdc in the three skipped fpdc, dc in the 4 unworked dc, skip 3 fpdc, bpdc in next 3 fpdc, go back to skipped fpdc, bpdc in the 3 skipped fpdc, dc in the next 3 dc, skip 1 dc, bpdc in 3 fpdc, 1 dc in fpdc just used, bpdc in fpdc just used, dc in next 3 dc, 1 dc in fpdc, bpdc in next 2 fpdc, dc in next 3 dc, dc in fpdc, skip 1 dc, dc in next 3 dc, {skip 3 fpdc, bpdc in next fpdc, go back to skipped fpdc, bpdc in the 3 skipped fpdc,dc in next 4 dc} repeat {to}. Dc in last dc.

Row 13: Ch 3,{dc in the next 4 dc, fpdc in the next 6 bpdc} repeat {to}, dc in next 3dc, fpdc in next 3 bpdc, dc in next 5 dc, fpdc in next 3 bpdc, dc in next 3 dc, {fpdc in next 6 bpdc, dc in next 4 dc} repeat {to}, dc in last dc.

Row 14: Row 8: Ch 3, dc in next 3 dc, skip 1 dc,  {bpdc in the next 3 fpdc, dc in last fpdc just used, dc in the next fpdc, bpdc in the fpdc just used, bpdc in the next 2 fpdc, skip dc, dc in next 2 dc, skip 1 dc} repeat  {to} but don’t skip 1 dc in the end of the repeat, bpdc in the next 3 fpdc, dc in next 5 dc, bpdc in next 3 fpdc, {dc in 2 dc, skip dc, bpdc in next 3 fpdc, 1 dc in last fpdc just used, 1 dc in the next fpdc, bpdc in same fpdc just used, bpdc in next 2 fpdc, skip 1 dc}, repeat {to}, dc in next 4 dc.

                                                                   

Repeat rows 3– 14 till it reaches 32 inches

Edging: Sc around the whole edge of the cowl.

Finishing 

Weave in your ends.

Sew on the 6 buttons equally across row 1.

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Christmas Card Boxes

When the Christmas season starts winding down, and the Christmas card pile is over flowing I often have a hard time putting things away for the next season, and heaven forbid throw some of those cards away. I have a simple craft for you that will help you not feel so guilty about those cards.

I used to make these as a little girl so I know they are easy. First step is to separate the front and back of the card. Second with a pencil and ruler, draw a line an inch from both sides of the card on the front and the back. Then make a mark an inch and a half down the line on each side.Cut on the line till the mark, then fold the cards on the line.

Once that is done you will fold the cuts toward the center of the card. Pull up the larger flap around the cut flaps and fold it over. If needed put a piece of tape in the inside of the box.

These boxes can be used for boxing up little presents and storing little treasures. 

Chicken Gumbo

Last week when I was roasting a chicken I was thinking about recipes that I have not made for a while that I could use for the left overs of the roasted chicken. I thought of making gumbo, and it just so happened that I had a coupon for andouille sausage so that made it even better. We really enjoyed our pot full and it disappeared quickly. I thought you would enjoy the recipe too.

To start with you will need my recipe for stock. You can find it here. or you can use canned.

I used 4 cups stock, and the chicken that was left on the carcass.
1 bag of frozen Cajun mixed vegetables (onion, celery and green pepper)
 1 Tbsp of minced garlic
1 Tbsp of parsley flakes
2 Tsp of Salt
2 tsp of chili powder
1/2 tps of   thyme
1/2 tps of cayenne pepper (you can always add more if you like some heat)
1/4 tps of black pepper
paprika for taste
1 link of andouille sausage

It is as easy as throwing all the ingredients in a pot and letting it simmer for an hour till all the favors have melded together. Serve it over a big bowl of rice, and you've  got a great cold weather soup.

Always Pointing North Blanket

 A Free Crochet Pattern for a fast moving Motif and Blanket

Is anyone else starting to stress out about Christmas coming up soon? At some points I feel like I have it all put together, but at times I wonder if i am going to get all my projects done in time. I started working on Christmas presents in August.

The first one I got done is the one I will share with you. Hopefully this will be fun for my family because they will get to see it early but no one will know who is getting it.  Maybe they can have a raffle for it. Ha.

The things that I love about this free crochet pattern is that the motifs are only three rounds so I can sit down on the couch for a five minute break and get one done. Then it is a join as you go blanket, so you  can't lose any of your pieces, unless you lose the whole thing. I would not doubt that happening in my house with a toddler. I also like that you can make lots of different color patterns.

If you would like to see more color options click here.

Always Pointing North Blanket 

Yarn: Any 4ply acrylic yarn 

Hook: G/ 6

Gauge: Each motif is 4 inches by 4 inches

Free Crochet Pattern Download:

This is a free Crochet Pattern. Keep scrolling down to see this great free crochet pattern. This pattern is also available for a free download. download now  This is a download from My Ravelry Shop. Thank you for your Support and don't forget to add it to your Favorites. 

First Motif

Round 1:{Ch 5, make 2 tr in fourth ch from hook keeping the last loop on the hook of each tr, (yo and pull though 2 loops) twice}repeat {to } three more times, sl st into beginning ch .  4 tr clusters.

Round 2: Ch 4, {tr in next space between tr cluster of previous row, ch 4, tr3tog in same space, ch 4, tr in same space} repeat {to} twice, tr,  ch 4, 3togtr, ch 4, sl st into beginning ch 4.  4 3togtr

Round 3: Sl st into next st and sp, ch 1, {5 sc in ch 4 sp, ch 7, 5 sc in next ch 4 sp, ch 3}, repeat {to} three more times, sl st into beginning sc. Finish off.

Motif with 1 joining motif:

Round 1 and 2: Follow first motif directions

Round 3: Sl st into next st and sp, ch 1, 5 sc in ch 4 sp, ch 3, make a joining sl st connecting with the other motif’s ch 7, ch 3, 5 sc in next ch 4 space, ch 1 make a joining sl st connecting with the other motif’s ch 3, ch 1, {5 sc in ch 4 sp, ch 7, 5 sc in next ch 4 sp, ch 3}, repeat {to} two more times, sl st into beginning sc. Finish Off.

Motif with 2 joining motifs:

Round 1 and 2: Follow first motif directions.

Round 3:  : Sl st into next st and sp, ch 1, (5 sc in ch 4 sp, ch 3, make a joining sl st connecting with the other motif’s ch 7, ch 3, 5 sc in next ch 4 space, ch 1 make a joining sl st connecting with the other motif’s ch 3, ch 1) repeat (to) ,  (5 sc in ch 4 sp, ch 7, 5 sc in next ch 4 sp, ch), repeat (to), sl st into beginning sc. Finish Off.

Edging:

 Round 1: Starting in a corner square at the ch 7,make a beginning tr3tog, {ch 3, tr3tog, in ch 7 space} repeat three times, ch 3, (sc, ch3, sc) in next ch 3 space {(ch 3, tr3tog) 5 times in joining spaces , ch 3, (sc, ch 3, sc) in next ch 3 space} continue to repeat {to} till you come to a corner, in corner make (ch 3,  tr3tog) five times, then continue with the repeat, sl st into first st when you come to it.

Round 2:  Sl st into ch sp,{ (sc, ch 3, sc, in each ch 3 sp between tr3tog) 4 times, (tr, ch 2)  4 times, tr in the ch 3 sp of previous row} repeat {to} around, sl st in first st. Finish Off. Weave in all ends.

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busy day

This is a great big busy day for me. A new issue of Crochetvolution is up. I have a pattern that is in this issue called Dragon Slayer Scarf . It is a fun pattern that works up fast since it is a bulky yarn. I like how it looks like you have just slayed a dragon and have draped it over your shoulder in victory.

Also today in the mail I got my contract for that pattern that will appear in Crochet World. So the next step is done, now to publishing! Again I can't wait till April.

All of these things were wonderful additions to a crummy week. I love how God blesses at times when we don't feel blessed. Even when we have bad weeks we can have confidence in God always taking care of us. 

Princess Tiara Headband

 A Free Crochet Pattern

When it comes to Halloween, every year I have been trying to use things I already have to make my daughter's costumes. This year with her being three she wanted to be a princess. I'm finding this year to be pretty easy since we will be using her flower girl dress this weekend for the wedding so that means it will be able to be used as a costume for Halloween.  All I need to do is add a few accessories. This is where this post comes in. I crocheted a tiara headband for her today and she loves it. I wrote down the pattern to share with all of you.

This is a simple pattern. it is only three rows, and I think I finished it in about 15 minutes.

 Princess Tiara Headband 

Yarn: Size 10 thread

Hook size: steel hook 3/2.10 MM

Band:

Ch 8, sl st into 1^st ch to make a loop, *ch 5, dc in 3^rd ch in loop just made, making a new loop* repeat *to* till you have the length you want. For the last loop ch 3, sl st into first loop, and sl st into the next 3 chs, dc into 3^rd ch of last loop. (I had 47 squares) Do not finish off.

Row 1: ch 1, 3 sc in each of the next 4 square spaces (for a total of 12 sc), 3 dc in each of the next 3 square spaces (for a total of 9 dc), 3 tr in next space, 3 dc in each of the next 3 spaces, 3 sc in each of the next spaces. 45 stitches.

Row 2: Ch 1, sc, picot (ch 4, sl st into st just made),[ sc in next 3 sc, picot] repeat, dc in next 3 st, ch 4, dc in next 4 st, picot, dc in next 3 st, picot, 3 tr in next 3 st, ch 6, picot, ch 6, skip 3 tr, tr in next 3 st, picot, dc in next 3 st, picot, dc in next 4 st, ch 4, dc in next 3 st, [sc in next 3 sc, picot] repeat. Finish off.

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A Remade Flower Girl Dress

 A while back my Daughter was asked to be a flower girl in a wedding. I procrastinated in getting a dress for her because I was not sure on how she would handle being a flower girl and the price that I would have to put up for a dress for her. The Wedding is this month so I was really starting to run out of time. 

I knew that I did not want to spend over 30 dollars on a dress, these days I don’t even spend that much on myself. I started looking around for dresses that would fit what the bride was wanting and still fit in my budget. A friend of mine offered me an all white dress. It was not what we were looking for but I took it thinking maybe I could do something with it.

After looking at it for a few days I realized that it would not be hard to change out the sash and add some colored flowers. I of course took pictures for a step by step guide to help you along if you would like to try it too.

Materials needed: One dress with simple construction, ribbon, and pearl beads

The first step is that I used really sharp scissors and ripped or took out the seam where the sash and ties were. Once that part was open the ties came right out and the sash stayed on the dress because it was still attached at the waist. I folded the old sash down so it would be hidden by the new sash. 

The second step is that I measured out my red ribbon to go across the old sash and through the open seams. I cut and pinned it down where I wanted it. I repeated the same thing with the ties. Once everything was in place I sewed the seam back up including the old sash, new sash and new ties in my stitches. It was such a small area to sew I did not even get my sewing machine out; I just did it by hand.

The flowers were a little bit harder for me, but that is mainly because I’m not a good cutter. The flowers that were already on the dress had five petals. I traced that flower on to some paper, and cut it out. I then pinned the paper flower to my white ribbon and cut around the paper flower. Once the white flower was cut out I pinned it to the red ribbon and I cut a larger flower around it, and I repeated the process with the brown ribbon.  After that I sewed a pearl bead onto the middle of the flowers.   While I was sewing the bead on I sewed it onto the dress as well. 

I was happy with the end results, but better yet the bride was happy with the results.

Taco or Fajita Seasoning

1 c. dried minced Onion
1/3 c. chili powder
2 T. Cumin
3 tsp. crushed red peper
1 T. Oregano
4 tsp garlic powder
2 tsp onion powder
2 tsp corn starch
Combine all the ingredients together and store it in a cool dry place. I like to put my in clean baby jars. One recipe fits into 2 jars.  2 T. equals one taco packet.


If at all possible I like to make most things from scratch, that way I know what is actually going into my food. This is a recipe that I go to pretty often and I like to stay stocked with. My daughter is in the WIC program so we always have, rice, beans and tortillas on hand. Because of that Mexican night happens pretty frequently in our house. Like tonight when it was just Abigail and I for dinner. I had some left over chicken so I made some simple quesadillas. Then I made re-fried beans by heating a T. of oil in a pan, then I added a drained can of pinto beans, with a 1/4 cup of water and 2 tsp of the taco seasoning. I used a potato masher on it till it had the consistency of  re-fried beans. I also plated everything with sour cream and salsa for dips. (I have not found a 3 year old who does not like to dip things.) Everything was done in about 10 minutes.

Curling Baby Set

A free Crochet Pattern

I feel like this is a pattern that has taken a long time to come about. I also feel that if I don't get it out soon it will stay on my computer forever. I'm sorry if there are a couple of mistakes and inadequacies, but at the same time I have confidence in the simplicity of the pattern and its easiness to make adjustments.


I had a time deciding if I wanted a diaper cover that fit over cloth diapers or disposable diapers. I went ahead with the dimensions of a cloth diaper. Also when making them I felt like they were really long and that they would end up at the babies armpits. My first attempts were way to short, don't be afraid to make it longer.


Now that I have told you everything wrong with my pattern I will tell you what I love. I love the texture. I wanted something that was absorbent so I chose the front and back post stitch to give it extra padding. The moms that have tried them have been really excited about how well the diaper covers work. I also love that it can have multiple colors in it. And I can not forget the little booties they are way cute, and they work up in about ten minutes.





Yarn: Size 4: loops and thread or red heart. One skein makes a cover, hat and 2 booties.

Hook: J/10 6mm

Notions: thread and buttons

Size: small, medium, large
Diaper covers
Length: 13 (15, 17)
Front: 5 (6, 7)
Back: 11 (13, 15)
Hats:
newborn, 0-3, 3-9, 9-12

Gauge:15 sts 13 rows equals 4 inches

Stitches Used: ch, sc, dc, sl st, fpdc, bpdc, sc2tog, sc3tog,

Copyright:Julia Schwartz. Do not reproduce, copy, distribute, or sell this pattern without permission of the designer. This pattern must not be translated, reproduced, or circulated in another language without prior consent. If you have questions about this pattern please contact Julia.diligence@gmail.com.

Where Can I Get This Pattern?

This is a free crochet pattern on the blog. Just keep scrolling down to see this pattern. By having it free on the blog I am able to promote the pattern more and share it with more people. I also feel that I bring some trust to my readers who can read through the pattern before they decide if they want to purchase the pattern.

If you would like to purchase this pattern that is ads free and printer friendly, it is available for Download through my Ravelry Store For $3.00.

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Diaper cover

Row 1: Ch 4, make 17 (19, 21) fdc (18, (20,22) dc altogether).

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as first dc here and throughout), turn, {skip 1 st, fpdc in next st, go back to missed st and fpdc}, repeat {to} 7 (8,9) times, dc in first dc .

Row 3:Ch 3, turn, bpdc in each st across, dc in last st.

Row 4- 12 (14, 16): Repeat rows 2 and 3 ending on row 2

Row 13 (15, 17): Ch 3, dc in same st for an increase, bpdc in each st across 2 dc in last stitch.

Row 14 (16, 18): Ch 3, fpdc in next st, {skip 1 st, fpdc in next st, go back to missed st and fpdc}, repeat {to} 6 times fpdc in next st, dc in 3rd ch of ch 3.

Row 15 (17 19): Repeat row 12(14, 16).

(For larger sizes you may find that you will want to add another increase row. )

Row 16 (18, 20): Ch 3, {skip 1 st, fpdc in next st, go back to missed st and fpdc}, repeat {to} 7 (8) times dc in 3rd ch of ch 3.

Row 17- 22 (19- 24, 21-28): Repeat rows 2 and 3 starting with 3 and ending with row 2

Row 23 (25, 29): Ch 7 (9, 11) , dc in 4th ch from hook, dc in next 2 (4, 6) chs, bpdc in each st across, at last dc add 4 (6) fdc.

Row 24 (26, 30): Ch 3, {skip 1 st, fpdc in next st, go back to missed st and fpdc}, repeat 13 (16) times dc in 3rd ch of ch 3.

Row 25 (27, 31): Ch 3, bpdc in each st across, dc in last st,

Row 26 (28, 31): Repeat row 24.

For all sizes: Sc in in each st around diaper cover for a border, and in each corner st add 2 sc.

Sew on four buttons to the front of the diaper cover to match up with the open holes in the stitches.

Hat:

Round 1: Ch 4, 8 (9,10) dc in 4th ch from hook, ( 9 (10,11) dc total).

Round 2: Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch here and throughout), 2 fpdc in starting st and in in each 1 around, sl st into first fpdc. 18 ( 20, 22) stitches total

Round 3: Ch 2, {fpdc in next 2 fpdc, go back 1 st and fpdc} repeat {to} around, sl st in beginning fpdc.

Round 4: Ch 2, {2 fpdc in first st, fpdc in next 2 st} repeat {to} around, sl st in beginning fpdc.

Round 5: Ch 2, {skip 1 fpdc, fpdc in next st, fpdc in skipped fpdc}, repeat {to} around, sl st in beginning fpdc.

Round 6: Ch 2, fpdc in each st across, sl st in beginning fpdc

Rounds 7- 12: Repeat rounds 5 and 6

Round 13: Sc in starting st, and around sl st in last st.

Round 14: Repeat round 13. Finish off. Weave in all ends

For larger sizes it might be necessary to add more rows.

Booties (newborn size only)

Round 1: Ch 7, sc in second ch from hook, sc in next 4 ch, 4 sc in next ch making a turn as you go, sc in next 4 ch, 2 sc in last ch, sl st in beginning sc.

Round 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in starting sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next 3 sc, sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next 2 sc, sl st in beginning sc.

Round 3: (in bl only) ch 3, dc in each st around, sl st in beginning ch 3.

Round 4: Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch), {sk 1 dc, fpdc in next, fpdc in skipped dc}, repeat {to} 3 times, tog3fpdc for next 3 dc, {sk 1 dc, fpdc in next, fpdc in skipped dc}, repeat {to} 4 times, sl st into beginning fpdc.

Round 5: Sl st into next st, sc in next 6 st, sc3tog, in next 3 st, sc in next 7 st, sc2tog in last 2 st, sl st in beginning st.

Round 6: Ch 1, sc in same st, and in next 5 st, sc3togin next 3 st, sc in next 5 st, sc2tog in last 2 st, sl st in beginning st. Finish off. Weave in all ends.

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