Designs by Diligence: crochet

Showing posts with label crochet. Show all posts

Monday, August 5, 2019

Rustic Dinner Scarf

A free Crochet Pattern

It's still pretty hot where I live so I have been using my cotton yarn a lot. I love working with cotton when it is hot. How about you? I have some table decor patterns to share with you. This one and a knit version will be coming soon.

I have a really large table. We bought it when we moved through the Home Depot website. They had free shipping so we knew the table would be waiting for us at our new house. We did not realize just how large it was. Just the table top without the legs was 250 lbs! Don't get me wrong once we got it up the stairs we have loved it. With it being so large the tablecloths that I had already didn't fit, so I have been making table scarves and mats to use instead.

I wanted something that had texture and lace combined and I'm really pleased. I hope you enjoy the pattern too.

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Designer: Julia Schwartz

Yarn: Lion Brand Yarn comfy cotton blend yarn, size 3, 50% cotton 50% polyester, 7 oz /200 g, color stained glass, 392 yrds

Hook: G/6 4.25 mm

Notions: Tapestry needle

Size: 10 by 25 inches

Gauge: 15 hdc x 11 rows = 4 inches

Stitches Used: Ch, sl st (slip stitch), sc (single crochet), hdc (half double crochet), fpdc (front post double crochet), sp (space)

Copyright:

Julia Schwartz. Do not reproduce, copy, distribute, or sell this pattern without permission of the designer. This pattern must not be translated, reproduced, or circulated in another language without prior consent. If you have questions about this pattern please contact Julia.diligence@gmail.com.

Purchase the Pattern

This is a free pattern. Keep scrolling down to see this pattern. If you would like to purchase a pattern that is ads free and printer friendly for $3.00 you can through my Ravelry Store.

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Instructions

Row 1: Ch 26, hdc in 2nd ch from the hook, hdc in each ch. (25 hdc)

Row 2: Ch 1 (d0es not count as a stitch), turn, hdc in each stitch. (25 hdc)

Row 3: Ch 1, turn, hdc in the next 4 sts, fpdc around the 7th stitch of row 2, sk 1 st, hdc in the next st, fpdc around the 5th stitch of row 2 (crossing over the last fpdc), sk 1 st, hdc in the next 4 sts, fpdc around the 14th stitch of row 2, sk 1 st, hdc in the next st, fpdc around the 12th stitch of row 2 (crossing over the last fpdc), sk 1 st, hdc in the next 4 sts, fpdc around the 21st stitch of row 2, sk 1 st, hdc in the next st, fpdc around the 16th stitch of row 2 (crossing over the last fpdc), sk 1 st, hdc in the last 4 sts. (19 hdc, 6 fpdc)

Row 4: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each stitch. (25 hdc)

Row 5: Ch 1, turn, hdc in the next 3 sts, {fpdc around fpdc of previous row, sk 1 st, hdc in the next 3 sts, fpdc around the fpdc of previous row, sk 1 st, hdc in the next 2 sts} repeat {to} 2 xs, hdc in the last st. (19 hdc, 6 fpdc)

Row 6: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each stitch. (25 hdc)

Row 7: Ch 1, turn, hdc in the first 2 hdc, fpdc around fpdc of previous row, sk 1 st, {hdc in the next 5 sts, fpdc around fpdc, fpdc around fpdc, sk 2 sts} repeat 1x, hdc in the next 5 sts, fpdc around fpdc of previous row, sk 1 st, hdc in the last 2 sts. (19 hdc, 6 fpdc)

Row 8: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each stitch. (25 hdc)

Row 9: Ch 1, turn, hdc in the first 2 hdc, fpdc around fpdc of previous row, sk 1 st, {hdc in the next 5 sts, fpdc around 2nd fpdc, fpdc around 1st fpdc (crossover made), sk 2 sts} repeat 1x, hdc in the next 5 sts, fpdc around fpdc of previous row, sk 1 st, hdc in the last 2 sts. (19 hdc, 6 fpdc)

Row 10: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each stitch. (25 hdc)

Row 11: Ch 1, turn, hdc in the next 3 sts, {fpdc around fpdc of previous row, sk 1 st, hdc in the next 3 sts, fpdc around the fpdc of previous row, sk 1 st, hdc in the next 2 sts} repeat {to} 2 xs, hdc in the last st. (19 hdc, 6 fpdc)

Row 12: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each stitch. (25 hdc)

Row 13: Ch 1, turn, {hdc in the next 4 sts, fpdc around fpdc, sk 1 st, hdc in the next st, fpdc around fpdc, sk 1 st} repeat 2xs , hdc in the last 4 sts, (19 hdc, 6 fpdc)

Row 14: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each stitch. (25 hdc)

Row 15: Ch 1, turn, Ch 1, turn, {hdc in the next 4 sts, fpdc around 2nd fpdc, sk 1 st, hdc in the next st, fpdc around 2nd fpdc (crossover made), sk 1 st} repeat 2xs , hdc in the last 4 sts, (19 hdc, 6 fpdc)

Row 16: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each stitch. (25 hdc)

Repeat rows 5 through 16 4 xs or until you have reached your desired length.

Finnish off.

Edging:

Round 1: Starting at any corner with right side facing up, ch 6 (1st ch 3 counts as 1st dc), 2 dc in starting st, sk 2 sts, {(dc, ch 3, dc) in next st, continue making (dc, ch 3, dc) evenly spaced across the side (model shown has 24 “v” stitches along the long side, and 6 on the short sides), ( 2 dc, ch 3, 2dc) in the corner space} repeat {to} 2xs, for the last side (dc, ch 3, dc) evenly spaced to the corner, dc in the corner, sl st into the starting dc.

Round 2: Sl st into ch 3 sp, ch 6, 2 dc in the same ch sp, {ch 3, sk 1 dc, sc in next dc, (ch 3, sc in the next ch 3 sp), repeat (to) to the next corner, ch 3, sc in the first dc of the (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc), ch 3, (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in the corner sp} repeat {to} 2 xs, ch 3, sk 1 dc, sc in next dc, (ch 3, sc in the next ch 3 sp), repeat (to) to the next corner, ch 3, sc in the first dc of the (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc), ch 3, dc in the first ch sp, sl stitch into first dc.

Round 3: sl st into ch 3 sp, ch 6, 2 dc in same sp, {(ch 3, sc in next ch 3 sp) repeat (to) to the corner sp, (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in the corner sp}, repeat 2xs, (ch 3, sc in next ch 3 sp) repeat (to) to the corner sp, dc in the first corner sp, sl st into the starting dc.

Finish off.

Weave in your ends.

More Patterns you Will Love

Justintime Dishcloth

A Tisket a Tasket Dishcloth

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Monday, May 27, 2019

Justintime Dishcloth

A free Crochet Pattern

If you have been here long, you know I love learning new things by making dishcloth swatches. I have a new one for you to share. In this one we are changing colors every row, and because of that we are only turning our work every other row. In other words we will work one row, then go back to the starting stitch and making the second row, after that second row we will turn our work and work on the "backside" of the dishcloth for 2 rows. Still a little confused? Give it a try. Some times just trying helps us see what we need to do. There are only 17 stitches in each row, so there is not a lot to make mistakes on.

I always have a terrible time coming up with names for things. This time it went like this:

Me yelling out into the house: "I need a new name."

My Husband Justin: "Name it after me. You haven't done that yet."

Me: "Okay."

Justin: "Wait, what is the object we are talking about?"

If you ever wonder where we get our name inspiration from there is a small glimpse. I have resorted to family names, counties or streets we have lived in, looking up words in the thesaurus, and baby name websites. If you have any other ideas let me know.

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Designer: Julia Schwartz
Yarn: Any 100% cotton, worsted size 4 yarn. 2 colors.
Hook: G/5
Notions: yarn needle for weaving in your ends
Size: 6 by 6 inches
Gauge:12 stitches by 12 rows = 4 inches
Stitches Used: Chain (ch), Single crochet (sc), Slip Stitch (sl st), Half Double Crochet (hdc),
Notes:

Each color makes a new row. Every two rows you turn your work and change directions.

Copyright: Julia Schwartz. Do not reproduce, copy, distribute, or sell this pattern without permission of the designer. This pattern must not be translated, reproduced, or circulated in another language without prior consent. If you have questions about this pattern please contact me through e-mail.

Where Can I get this pattern?

Pattern Instructions

Row 1: (Color A) Ch 18, sl st in first ch, {hdc in next ch, sl st in next ch}, repeat {to} 7 x's, ch 1. (17 sts)

Row 2: (Color B) Take your hook out of the ch st, and move back to the first sl st of last row, attach your yarn with a ch st (only for the first time), Hdc in the sl st, {sl st in the hdc, hdc in the sl st} Repeat {to} 7 x's, ch 1. (17 sts)

Row 3: (Color A) Turn (switch back to color A), sl st in hdc, {hdc in next sl st, sl st in next hdc}, repeat {to} 7 x's, ch 1. (17 sts)

Row 4-17: repeat rows 2 and 3

Notes to remember:

You do not need to cut your yarn when switching colors just carry them up as you go.
I found making a chain stitch at the end of the row really helpful for not loosing stitches. That chain 1 never counts as a stitch but it starts the new row.

At the end of row 17 cut the yarn you are not using for the edging and finish it off.

Edging

Rows 1 and 2: With color A, do not turn, ch 1, 2 sc in the corner st, {make 1 sc in each row, make 3 sc in the corner st, sc in each st} repeat {to}, sc in the first corner st, sl st in first st. Finish off at the end of row 2.

Weave in all of your ends.

More Crochet Patterns You Will Love

Pinevale Dishcloth

A Tisket A Tasket Dishcloth

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Tuesday, April 23, 2019

Camden Blanket

A Free Beginner Friendly Crochet Pattern

I love making baby things in the spring. Maybe it has something to do with new life springing up everywhere in nature, I just have to be a part of it too somehow. Last month my church had a baby shower for the City Union Mission.

It was not a typical baby shower. For one we had no idea who the baby was, and there was no expectant mother there to greet us. The City Union Mission had a need for more baby items, so we answered the call in a small way. On Doughnut Sunday we gathered together all the baby things we collected throughout the month and we got to gush over all the little things that fit babies. When everyone one finished Oooo and awing one of the ladies took all the things up to where they needed to go. This blanket was my contribution to the baby items.

This pattern is a really easy pattern that is great to do while watching a show, or you just need something easy for a change. It was so easy I was surprised that I couldn't find any other patterns like it on Ravelry. Because of that I have typed up the pattern to share with you.

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Where can I get this pattern

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Designer: Julia Schwartz

Yarn: Bernat Softee Baby 100% acrylic, 4.25 oz./ 120 g., 310 yrds/ 283 m, 4 balls needed (3 marls, 1 solid)

Hook: 4.00 mm, US G/6

Notions: tapestry needle

Size: 40 by 40 inches Gauge: 16 sts X 19 = 4 inches

Stitches Used: Single crochet (sc), Chain (ch), Slip Stitch (sl st), Skip Stitch (sk st), Single crochet 2 stitches together (sc2tog), Single crochet 3 stitches together (sc3tog)

Notes:

This pattern is worked on a diagonal so the first half looks like a triangle and then the second half is closing the triangle into a square.

Pattern Instructions

Increasing Rows

Row 1: Ch 2, make 3 sc in the second ch from the hook. (3 sc made)

Row 2: Ch 1, turn, 2 sc in the first st, ch 1, sk 1 st, 2 sc in the last st. (4 sc made, 1 ch made)

Row 3: Ch 1, turn, 2 sc in the first st, {ch 1, sk 1 st, sc in the next ch}, Repeat {to} to the last 2 stitches, ch 1, sk 1 st, 2 sc in the last st. (2 stitch increase every row)

Keep repeating row 3 until the triangle is 36 inches or until you have reached your desired width.

Decreasing Rows

Row 1: Ch 1, turn, sc in the first st, sc2tog in the next st and ch, {ch 1, sk 1 st, sc in the next ch}, repeat {to} to the last 4 sts, ch 1, sk 1 st, sc2tog in the next ch and sc, sc in the last st. (2 decreases in each row)

Keep repeating row 1 until there are only 5 sts left

Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in the first st, sc3tog in the next 3 sts, sc in the last st

Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc3tog in the last 3 sts.

Finish off

Edging

Row 1: Attaching the yarn at any corner, ch 1, {(sc, ch 1, sc) in the corner st, sc in each st to the next corner} repeat {to} until the last corner, sl st into the first st.

Row 2: Sl st into the corner ch st, {(sc, ch 1, sc) in the same corner st, ch 1, sk 1 st, sc in the next st} repeat {to} to the last corner, sl st into the first st.

Continue repeating row 2 until you have your desired width of edging.

Last row: Ch 1, reverse sc in each st, sl st in first st.

Finish off.

Weave in your ends.

More Crochet Patterns You Will Love

Double Brimmed Hat

Infant Hat in Simple Cables

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Monday, March 11, 2019

Campfire Hat

A Free Tunisian Crochet Pattern

When I made the Pinevale scarf, I had a rough idea that I wanted to make a hat with the same stitch pattern. I didn't have any more of the yarn that I used for it so I went in I totally different direction for the colors. I'm not disappointed though. I don't think you will be either.

I used Hayfield spirit yarn for this hat. It is some yarn that I won off of ebay. It is a really soft acrylic yarn that has a touch of wool in it. The colors are really vibrant and just scream warmer weather and no more winter doldrums.

This is a hat that is worked with Tunisian crochet. The hat is worked flat from the bottom up and then seamed at the end.

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Designer: Julia Schwartz

Yarn: Hayfield Spirit double knitting, 80% arylic 20% wool, 100g, 345m/377 yrds, shade 0400

Hook: 6mm Tunisian hook.

Notions: tapestry needle

Size: Circumference 20 inches stretches to fit most adults

Gauge: 13 sts 16 rows equals 4 inches

Special Stitches:

TPS (Tunisian Purl stitch): (forward pass) Place yarn in front of your work, insert your hook into the left vertical bar of the st below, yo and pull your yarn through. (Return pass): follow instructions in the pattern.
TKS (Tunisian Knit stitch): (Forward pass)working with the yarn behind your work, insert your hook between the vertical bars below the horizontal bars in the st below, yo, pull the yarn through, keep your loop on the hook.(Return pass): follow instructions in the pattern.
Spike Stitch: (forward pass) working with the yarn behind your work, insert your hook between the vertical bars that are 3 rows below the working row,, yo, pull the yarn through bringing it up to the working row, keep your loop on te hook. (return pass): follow instructions in the pattern.
TK3tog (Tunisian knit 3 together): (forward pass): working with the yarn behind your work insert your hook through the left vertical loops of the next 3 stitches, yo, pull the yarn through , keep your loop on the hook. (return pass): follow instructions in the pattern.
TK2tog (Tunisian knit 2 together): (forward pass): working with the yarn behind your work insert your hook through the left vertical loops of the next 2 stitches, yo, pull the yarn through , keep your loop on the hook. (return pass): follow instructions in the pattern.
Yo (yarn over): (Forward pass) put the yarn over the hook from back to front, (Return pass): treat this as a loop on the return pass

Copyright:
Julia Schwartz. Do not reproduce, copy, distribute, or sell this pattern without permission of the designer. This pattern must not be translated, reproduced, or circulated in another language without prior consent. If you have questions about this pattern please contact Julia.diligence@gmail.com.

Where can I get this pattern

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Instructions

Hat Band

Foundation Row: (forward pass) Ch 8, insert hook into each ch and pull up a loop for a total of 8 loops on the hook,
(return pass:) yo, pull through 1 loop, (yo, pull through 2 loops) repeat (to) until you have 1 loop left.

Rows 1: (forward pass) {TKS}(first loop on the hook counts as a TKS here and throughout) repeat {to} to last st, TKS in the last st.
(return pass:) yo, pull through 1 loop, (yo, pull through 2 loops) repeat (to) until you have 1 loop left. (8 sts)

Row 2: (forward pass) {TPS} repeat {to} to the last st, TKS in the last st.
(return pass:) yo, pull through 1 loop, (yo, pull through 2 loops) repeat (to) until you have 1 loop left. (8 sts)

Repeat rows 1 and 2 for a total of 85 rows

Row 85: sl st in each stitch across. Do not finish off.

Body of the Hat

Row 1: Turn the body of your work 90 degrees and work in the loops down the side. Pick up a loop on your hook for each row You will have 85 loops on your hook.
(return pass:) yo, pull through 1 loop, (yo, pull through 2 loops) repeat (to) until you have 1 loop left. (85 sts)

Rows 2 and 3: (forward pass) {TKS} repeat {to} to last st, TKS in the last st.
(return pass:) yo, pull through 1 loop, (yo, pull through 2 loops) repeat (to) until you have 1 loop left. (85 sts)

Row 4: (forward pass) 2 TKS, {spike st, 3 TKS} repeat {to} 19 times, spike st, TKS in the last 2 sts.
(return pass:) yo, pull through 1 loop, (yo, pull through 2 loops) repeat (to) until you have 1 loop left. (85 sts)

Row 5: (Forward pass) TKS, {yo, TKS3tog, yo, TKS} repeat {to} 19 times.
(return pass:) yo, pull through 1 loop, (yo, pull through 2 loops) repeat (to) until you have 1 loop left. (85 sts)

Row 6: (forward pass) 4 TKS, {spike st, 3 TKS} repeat {to} 18 times, TKS in the last st.
(return pass:) yo, pull through 1 loop, (yo, pull through 2 loops) repeat (to) until you have 1 loop left. (85 sts)

Row 7: (forward pass) 3 TKS, {yo, TKS3tog, yo, TKS} Repeat (to) 18 times, TKS in the last 2 sts
(return pass:) yo, pull through 1 loop, (yo, pull through 2 loops) repeat (to) until you have 1 loop left. (85 sts)

Rows 8- 28: repeat rows 4-8 or repeat until your hat measures 7 1/2 inches.

Row 29: (forward pass) 5 TKS, Tks3tog, (9 TKS, TKS3tog) repeat (to) 5 times, TKS in the last 5 sts
(return pass:) yo, pull through 1 loop, (yo, pull through 2 loops) repeat (to) until you have 1 loop left.

Row 30: (forward pass) 4TKS, Tks3tog, (7 TKS, TKS3tog) repeat (to) 5 times, TKS in the last 4 sts
(return pass:) yo, pull through 1 loop, (yo, pull through 2 loops) repeat (to) until you have 1 loop left.

Row 31: (forward pass) 3TKS, Tks3tog, (5 TKS, TKS3tog) repeat (to) 5 times, TKS in the last 3 sts
(return pass:) yo, pull through 1 loop, (yo, pull through 2 loops) repeat (to) until you have 1 loop left.

Row 32: (forward pass) 2 TKS, Tks3tog, (3 TKS, TKS3tog) repeat (to) 5 times, TKS in the last 2 sts
(return pass:) yo, pull through 1 loop, (yo, pull through 2 loops) repeat (to) until you have 1 loop left.

Row 33: (forward pass) 1 TKS, Tks3tog, (1 TKS, TKS3tog) repeat (to) 5 times, TKS in the last 1 sts
(return pass:) yo, pull through 1 loop, (yo, pull through 2 loops) repeat (to) until you have 1 loop left.

Row 34: (forward pass) 1 TKS, TKS2tog for the remaining stitches

(return pass:) yo, pull through 1 loop, (yo, pull through 2 loops) repeat (to) until you have 1 loop left.

Finish off with a 16 inch long tail. Using the tail with a wip stitch sew up the back seam of the hat.

Weave in your ends.

More Tunisian Crochet paterns you will love:

Pinevale Triangle Scarf

In a Flash Mitered corners blanket

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Monday, January 28, 2019

Pinevale Triangle Scarf

A Free Tunisian Crochet Pattern

I'm sure it's pretty obvious in my designs that I love texture. I also love color, but I don't always know what to do with it. Especially when it comes to variegated or hand painted yarns. I don't think I am alone in this but maybe I am. I was gifted this skein of Mushishi yarn. It has got to be some of the nicest yarn I have worked with, and I wanted to really show it off.

I was a little worried about using it for Tunisian Crochet because it's not known for being a stretchy stitch, and the yarn has some silk in it and it is also not known for being stretchy. I gave it a shot and the end result is an incredibly warm full of drape ( I know it's hard to believe) triangle scarf.

I finished it off right before Christmas and it was the perfect accessory to wear for the holiday events. I loved it so much I knew I wanted to make a knit version too. Some of you have probably seen it on Instagram and Facebook already. I'm excited about these new patterns and inspiration.

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Designer: Julia Schwartz
Yarn: Plymouth yarn: Mushishi 95% wool, 5% silk 250g. = 491 yds approx Color 14
Hook: 6mm Tunisian hook. For this pattern it is helpful to have a cable Tunisian hook.
Notions: tapestry needle
Size: Wingspan is 52 inches
Gauge: 13 sts 16 rows equals 4 inches

Special Stitches:

TPS (Tunisian Purl stitch): (forward pass) Place yarn in front of your work, insert your hook into the left vertical bar of the st below, yo and pull your yarn through. (Return pass): follow instructions in the pattern.
TKS (Tunisian Knit stitch): (Forward pass)working with the yarn behind your work, insert your hook between the vertical bars below the horizontal bars in the st below, yo, pull the yarn through, keep your loop on the hook.(Return pass): follow instructions in the pattern.
Spike Stitch: (forward pass) working with the yarn behind your work, insert your hook between the vertical bars that are 3 rows below the working row,, yo, pull the yarn through bringing it up to the working row, keep your loop on te hook. (return pass): follow instructions in the pattern.
TK3tog (Tunisian knit 3 together): (forward pass): working with the yarn behind your work insert your hook through the left vertical loops of the next 3 stitches, yo, pull the yarn through , keep your loop on the hook. (return pass): follow instructions in the pattern.

Yo (yarn over): (Forward pass) put the yarn over the hook from back to front, (Return pass): treat this as a loop on the return pass

Copyright:

Julia Schwartz. Do not reproduce, copy, distribute, or sell this pattern without permission of the designer. This pattern must not be translated, reproduced, or circulated in another language without prior consent. If you have questions about this pattern please contact Julia.diligence@gmail.com.

Where can I get this pattern

This is a free Pattern right here on the blog. Just keep scrolling down to find the pattern. If you would like an ads free, printer friendly PDF version I have them for sale in my Ravelry Shop for 3.00.
<------------>buy now<------------>

If This pattern seems a little tough to you. I have a swatch dishcloth with the same stitch pattern to help you learn. You can find it Here!

Instructions

Tab Start

Foundation Row: (forward pass) Ch 4, insert hook into each ch and pull up a loop for a total of 4 loops on the hook,
(return pass:) yo, pull through 1 loop, (yo, pull through 2 loops) repeat (to) until you have 1 loop left.

Rows 1- 5: (forward pass) {TKS}(first loop on the hook counts as a TKS here and throughout) repeat {to} to last st, TKS in the last st.
(return pass:) yo, pull through 1 loop, (yo, pull through 2 loops) repeat (to) until you have 1 loop left. (4 sts)

Row 6: (forward pass) 4 TKS, turn work 90 degrees, pull up 3 loops equally spaced down the side of the tab, turn your work 90 degrees, 4 TKS in the first stitches made.
(return pass:) yo, pull through 1 loop, (yo, pull through 2 loops) repeat (to) until you have 1 loop left. (11 sts)

Body of the Scarf

Row 1: (forward pass) 4 TKS, yo, TKS, yo, pm, TKS, yo, TKS, yo, pm, 4 TKS
(return pass:) yo, pull through 1 loop, (yo, pull through 2 loops) repeat (to) until you have 1 loop left. move your markers up as you pass them. (11 sts)

Rows 2-12: (forward pass) 4 TKS, yo, (TKS) to marker, yo, pm, TKS, yo, (TKS )to marker, yo, pm, 4 TKS
(return pass:) yo, pull through 1 loop, (yo, pull through 2 loops) repeat (to) until you have 1 loop left. move your markers up as you pass them. (4 st increase every row)

Row 13: (forward pass) 4 TKS, {yo, 2 TKS, (spike st, 3 TKS) repeat (to) to last 2 sts before the marker, 2 TKS, yo, pm}, TKS, Repeat {to} 1x, 4 TKS in the last 4 st
(return pass:) yo, pull through 1 loop, (yo, pull through 2 loops) repeat (to) until you have 1 loop left. move your markers up as you pass them. (4 st increase)

Row 14: (Forward pass) 4 TKS, { yo, 2 TKS, (yo, TK3tog, yo, TKS) repeat (to) the last 2 sts before marker, 2 TKS, yo, pm}, TKS, Repeat {to} 1x, 4 TKS in the last 4 st
(return pass:) yo, pull through 1 loop, (yo, pull through 2 loops) repeat (to) until you have 1 loop left. move your markers up as you pass them. (4 st increase)

Rows 15- 20: Repeat rows 13 and 14

Rows 21- 32: Repeat row 2

Rows 33- 40: Repeat rows 13 and 14

Rows 41- 48: Repeat row 2

Row 49: Repeat row 13

Row 50: Repeat row 14

Row 51: Working in regular crochet now, ch 1, sc in the next 4 TKS, ch 1, (sc, ch 1 in each st, skipping the yo stitches) repeat (to) to the last 4 TKS, sc in the last 4 TKS

Row 52: Ch 1, Reverse sc in each sc across. sl st in last st.

Finish off.
Weave in your ends.
Wet Block on blocking boards.

More Crochet Patterns You Will Love

Puddles of Love Baby Blanket

Etching Scarf

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Monday, December 31, 2018

2018 Pattern Recap

A year in review

What a crazy year it has been. Throughout 2018 I continued to add more knitting patterns to the blog. It was a scary process learning and introducing something new. I have also continued to add crochet Patterns. You have been a great support and encouragement. I can't tell you how exciting it is to get on the front page of Ravelry when I put up a new pattern. Us designers really appreciate all those likes and comments. It really helps us know we are doing something right.

I love designing. This coming year my goals are simple. I want to continue growing in my pattern writing skills. Even though I'm good at designing, the actual pattern writing is hard. I want to have great quality patterns for you. I plan to continue cultivating relationships with the people who have been helping me with copy editing and testing. This year I created 23 patterns. Which is a crazy amount when I think about the fact that I moved 1,000 miles back to the United States in September.

One other goal is to better define my brand with the crochet patterns. I feel that I have my brand and style for knitting, but I'm a little all over the place with crochet. It's hard to just pick one area to focus on. So for 2019 you might be seeing a lot more Tunisian Crochet patterns from me. I feel this is an area that I truly love and that I will be excited to teach and expand.

This next year I don't see myself creating that many patterns. Like I said, I really want to focus on the quality this year. It is also the last year that Sweet Pea will be home with me before she heads to school, so want to focus on having that quality time with her. With that being said I already have the next 4 patterns lined up for 2019. 2 triangle scarves and 2 stitch tutorials. They are a knit and a Tunisian crochet version of the same pattern.

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