Iris Crochet Edging

  A Free Crochet Pattern

Sometimes you have to join two worlds to make something great. I had an idea in my head and it just needed knit and crochet to make it happen. I wanted a cowl with a beautiful drape, and with a feminine lace to finish it off.   I also wanted something light for those cool late summer nights that happen here in Toronto because of the lake.

Light and with lots of drape meant this was going to be a knit cowl. I wanted the lace to come to points, and with knitting you can be pretty limited on coming to points, so that means the lace would have to be crochet.

Then I was in a conundrum. How would I promote my new pattern? Most sites want either knit or crochet not both at the same time. So I have decided to promote just the edging.

The cowl is a perfect pattern for someone who crochets and is wanting to try out knitting. There is no easier knitting pattern out there. Just cast on the amount of stitches you want and then knit until you reach 30 inches.

The crochet edging is a simple shell pattern. The only stitches used are sc, dc, ch, and picot. Lace doesn't have to be complicated to look beautiful. Another great part of this lace is that you can make it as long as you like. The body of the lace is a 2 row pattern repeat that ends with a big finish to really make it stand out.

  


Designer Julia Schwartz
Yarn: 100% Merino Wool: Lace weight, color beige
Hook: 00/3.5mm Steel hook
Notions: yarn needle
Size: minimum height is 2 ½ inches
Gauge: 2 shells and 6 rows is 2 inches
Special Stitches:
Picot: Ch 3, sl st into the st just completed.

Notes: The cowl is worked with a knit garter stitch. the needles were US 7/ 4.5mm. I cast on 40 stitches using the twisted German cast on and I knit stitched til it was 30 inches long. I then wip stitched the two ends together. The edging is worked with crochet.

Copyright: Julia Schwartz. 
Do not reproduce, copy, distribute, or sell this pattern without permission of the designer. This pattern must not be translated, reproduced, or circulated in another language without prior consent. If you have questions about this pattern please contact Julia.diligence@gmail.com.

 

Purchase This Pattern

This is a free Pattern! Keep scrolling down to see this free crochet pattern.

If you would like to purchase a printer friendly, ads free version there is one available in my Ravelry Store. Most of my patterns are $3.00.
<---> buy now  <---->
the link will take you through the buying process, or you can start at Ravelry if you prefer.

 

 

Edging Pattern: 

Row 1: Attach yarn with a ch, sc in same st, {ch 3, sk 2 st, sc in the next st}, Repeat {to} till the end of the row, sl st into starting sc.

Row 2: Sl st into first ch 3 loop, ch 1, {sc in the ch 3 loop, (5 dc) in the next ch 3 loop (shell made)}, Repeat {to} til the end of the row, sl st in to the beg. St.

Row 3: Ch 3, {sk 2 dc, (sc, ch 3, sc) in next dc, (dc, ch 3, dc) in the next sc}, Repeat {to} till last shell, (sc, ch 3, sc) in middle dc of shell, (dc, ch 3) in the last sc, sl st in beg. St.

Row 4: Sl St in to ch 3 sp. On top of shell, ch 1, sc in same sp, (5 dc) in next ch 3 sp, {sc in the next ch 3 sp, (5dc) in the next ch 3 sp} Repeat {to} till the end of the row, sl st into first sc.

Continue repeating Row 3 and 4 till 1 inch from desired length of edging.

Row 5: Ch 3, {sk 2 dc, (sc, ch 7, sc) in next dc, (dc, ch 3, dc) in the next sc}, repeat {to} till last shell, (sc, ch 7, sc) in middle dc of shell, (dc, ch 3) in last sc, sl st in beg. St.

Row 6: Sl st into ch 7 sp, ch 3, (5 dc, picot, 5 dc) in the ch 7 sp, {sc in the ch 3 sp, (6 dc, picot, 5 dc) in ch 7 sp} repeat {to} the end of the row, sc in the last ch 3 sp, sl st into the first ch 3.

Finish off. Weave in your ends.

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Your Slip is Showing Crochet Edging



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Pin For Later!

Minnesota Layette Set

A Free Crochet Pattern Pack

I'm Bringing over another pattern (or three) from the Crochetvolution files. I debated on if I would divide this one up or not but I decided to keep them together. I am making them available in my Ravelry Store as an ebook download. And it is huge coming in at 6 pages. It is also here on the blog so just keep scrolling down to read the pattern.
 Ravelry Store

download now




Materials:

• Lion Brand Pound of love [100 % Acrylic; 1020yd/932m per skein]; color: beige; baby blue [1,1]skeins
• H/8 (5.00mm) hook
• 4 small buttons
• Yarn Needle

Size: Blanket – Toddler size, Hat – Newborn, Sweater – Newborn

Finished Measurements:
Hat: 14″ circumference
Sweater: Chest – 16 inches
Gauge: 12 dc/5 rows = 4″

Note: Every two rows you will be switching colors. If you want to keep the long sc as the same color underneath it you will make 2 rows one color then switch. If you would like to have the long sc a
different color than what is underneath start with one color, in row 2 switch colors, then start switching
colors every 2 rows.

Special Stitches
Popcorn stitch: make 4 dc in space indicated, sl st into first of 4 dc made
Long sc: In the indicated stitch make a sc in post of stitch indicated in pattern (usually two or three rows down), pulling your strings up to meet the row you are working in making the sc long. Skip the st in the row you are working that you would normally work in(unless the pattern says otherwise like in the hat pattern).

Directions:

Blanket

 

Row 1: With beige, fdc 110.

Row 2: (Right side) Sc in each stitch across.

Row 3: Switch colors without finishing off, continuing to carry it up at every change (continue doing this throughout the layette set unless told otherwise). Ch 3 (counts as dc here and throughout), dc in next 4 dc, {popcorn st in next st, dc in next 10 st.}Repeat  {to} 8 times, popcorn st, dc in next 5 dc (10 popcorn st.)

Row 4: Ch 1, turn. Sc in same st, sc in next 3 st. {Long sc around post of dc below st in row 1, skip sc you would have gone in, sc in next st, long sc around post of dc below st in row 1,skip sc you would
have gone in, sc in next 8 stitches.} Repeat {to} 8 times, long sc, sc ,long sc, sc in next 3 st.

Row 5: Change color. Dc in each st across.

Row 6: Ch 1, turn. Sc in same st, sc in next 3 st. {Long sc around post of long sc of previous row, skip sc you would have gone in, sc in next stitch, long sc around post of long sc of previous row, skip sc you would have gone in, sc in next 8 st.} Repeat {to} 8 times, long sc, sc, long sc, sc in next 3 st.

Row 7: Switch colors without finishing off, continuing to carry it up at every change. Ch 3, dc in next 4 dc, {popcorn st in next st, dc in next 10 st.}  Repeat {to} 8 times, popcorn st, dc in next 5 dc (10 popcorn st.)

Row 8: Repeat Row 6.

Row 9 to end: Repeat Rows 5-8, finishing with Row 6 in beige at Row 118.

Edging:

Rnd 1: Switch to blue; do not turn. Ch 1, sc in same st. Working down the long side, make 1 sc in each sc and 2 sc in each dc, working your way to the corner. In the corner make 3 sc. Continue making sc in each st across, making 3 sc in each corner, at the end make one sc in same st as the first sc, sl st into first sc to join.

Rnd 2: Ch 5, 2 dc in same st, dc in each st around. At corner st, make 2dc, ch 2, 2 dc. Continue around to beginning st, 1 dc in first st, sl st in beginning dc. Finish off.

Hat

 

Rnd 1: Ch 4, join with sl st in first ch to form a ring. Ch 1, make 8 sc in ring, sl st into first sc. (8 sc)

Rnd 2: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in same st, 2 dc in each st around, sl st into first st. (16 dc)

Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc in same st. {Make 2 sc in next st, sc in next st.} Repeat {to} around, ending with 2 sc, sl st into first sc. (24 sc)

Rnd 4: Ch 3, dc in next sc. {Make 2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 2 st.}  Repeat {to} around ending with 2 dc, sl st into first sc. (32 dc)

Rnd 5: Change color, ch 1, sc in same st and in next 3. Long sc into post of corresponding dc in round 2, {sc in the st you would have skipped, sc in next 3 st, skipping 1 dc, long sc into next dc}, repeat {to} around, sl st into first sc. (40 sc)

Rnd 6: Change colors, ch 3, dc in next 3 st, 2 dc in long sc.{Dc in next 4 st, 2 dc in long sc} repeat {to} around, sl st into first st. (48dc)

Rnd 7: Ch 1, sc in same st and in each st around, sl st into first sc. (48 sc)

Rnd 8: Ch 3, dc in each st around, sl st into first st.

Rnd 9: Change colors, ch 1, sc in same st, and in next 2, long sc into dc of row 6, skip sc that you would have worked into, {sc in 3 sc, long sc into dc of row 6, skip sc that you would have worked into (there will be 3 dc in-between the long sc’s.)} repeat {to} around, sl st into first sc. (12 long sc)

Rnd 10: Repeat Rnd 8.

Rnd 11: Change colors, ch 1, sc in same st and in next 2. Long sc into post of long sc of previous row, {sc in 3 sc, long sc} repeat {to} around, sl st into first st.

Rnds 12-17: Repeat Rnds 10-11. Follow picture for when to change colors. Rounds 5, 6, 9, 12,
13, 15, 16, 17, are the rounds that you will change. Finish off and weave in all ends.

Sweater

 

Note: Switch colors every two rows. If you want to keep the long sc as the same color underneath it you will make 2 rows one color then switch. If you would like to have the long sc a
different color than what is underneath start with one color, in row 2 switch colors, then start switching colors every 2 rows. Make note that doing it this way your colors will not match up when you sew up the seams of the sweater.

Row 1: Make 32 fdc.

Row 2: Ch 1, turn (right side). Sc in same st and sc in each st across. (32 st.)

Row 3: Ch 3 (counts as dc here and throughout) turn, dc in next st and each st across. (32 st)

Row 4: Ch 1, turn, sc in same st, and sc in next 3 sc. {Make 1 long sc around corresponding dc in row 1, skip sc that you would have gone in, sc in next sc, long sc around corresponding dc in row 1}, sc in next 18 sc. Repeat {to} , sc in next 4 st. (28 sc 4 long sc)

Row 5: Repeat Row 3.

Row 6: Ch 1, turn. Sc in same st, and sc in next 3 sc. {Make 1 long sc around post of corresponding long sc of last row, skip sc that you would have gone in, sc in next sc, long sc around post of corresponding long sc of last row}, sc in next 7 sc, long sc in next st, sc in next 2 sc, long sc, sc in next 7 sc, repeat {to}, sc in next 4 st. ( 26 sc, 6 long sc)

Row 7-12: Repeat Rows 5 and 6.

Row 13: Repeat Row 3.

Row 14: Ch 17, turn sc in each ch across. Repeat row 4, make 14 fsc.

Row 15: Repeat row 3. (66 st)

Row 16: Ch 1, turn, sc in same st and in next 20 st. Make long sc, sc, long sc, sc in next 18 sc. Make long sc, sc, long sc, sc in last 21 st. (62 sc, 4 long sc)

Row 17: Repeat Row 15.

Row 18: Ch 1, turn, sc in same st, sc in next 20 sc, long sc, sc, long sc, sc in next 3 sc. Leaving all other spaces empty, start next row. (This will be considered the right side.) (27 st)

Row 19: Ch 3. Dc in each st across.

Row 20- 23: Repeat Rows 18 and 19.

Row 24: Ch 1, turn, sc in same st, sc in next 20 sc, long sc, sc, long sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 fsc

Row 25: Repeat Row 19. (29 st)

Row 26: Ch 1, turn, sc in same st, sc in next 20 sc, long sc, sc, long sc, sc in next 5 sc, make 2 fsc.

Row 27: Repeat Row 19. (31 st)

Row 28: Ch 1. turn, sc in same st, sc in next 20 sc, long sc, sc, long sc, sc in next 3 sc, long sc in dc of row 25, sc in next 3 sc, make 2 fsc.

Row 29: Repeat Row 19. (33 st)

Row 30: Ch 1, turn, sc in same st, sc in next 20 sc, long sc, sc, long sc, sc in next 3 sc, long sc, sc, long sc in dc of 27, sc in next 3 sc.

Row 31: Ch 3, dc in next 15 st. (16 st)

Row 32: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 3 sc,* long sc, sc, long sc, sc in next 3 sc,* repeat.

Row 33- 42: Repeat Rows 31 and 32. Finish off.

Left Side:

 

Starting back at Row 18, skip 12 unused dc, join with beige with a sc, sc in next 2 st, long sc, sc, long sc,sc in next 20 sc.

Row 19: Ch 3 turn, dc in each st across.

Row 20: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 2 st, long sc, sc, long sc, sc in next 21 sc.

Row 21: Repeat Row 19.

Row 22: Repeat Row 20.

Row 23: Repeat Row 19.

Row 24: Ch 3, turn, sc in second ch from hook, and next ch, sc in next 3 sc, long sc, sc, long sc, sc in next 21 st.

Row 25: Repeat Row 19.

Row 26: Ch 3, turn, sc in second ch from hook, and next ch, sc in next 5 sc, long sc, sc, long sc, sc in next 21 st.

Row 27: Repeat Row 19.

Row 28: Ch 3, turn, sc in 2nd ch from hook, and next ch, sc in next 3 sc, long sc into dc from row 25, sc in next 3 sc, long sc, sc, long sc, sc in next 21 st.

Row 29: Repeat Row 19.

Row 30: Ch 1, turn, sc in same st, sc in next 3 st, long sc into dc of row 27, sc, long sc into long sc, sc in next 3 sc, long sc, sc, long sc, sc in next 21 st. Finish off both colors.

Row 31: Turn. Skip 16 sc, join and ch 3 in next st, dc in next st across.

Row 32: Ch 1, sc in same st, *sc in next 3 sc, long sc, sc, long sc* repeat *to * sc in next 3 sc.

Row 33: Ch 3 in next st, dc in next st across.

Row 34-42: Repeat Rows 32 and 33.

Finishing: Fold sweater along sleeves and sew up the sides and the arms.

Sleeve Edging:

Rnd 1: Join with a sc at the left side of the seam with the right side facing. Make an even amount of sc around the sleeve, making sure to weave in the loose yarn ends as you go around. Sl st into first sc.

Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in each sc around. Sl st in beginning sc, finish off.
Repeat for other sleeve.

Sweater Edging:

Rnd 1: Starting at bottom of the sweater (so you will work your way up the collar and around with right side facing), ch 1. Make 2 sc in same st, make 2 sc in each dc post, 1 sc in each sc post. Repeat till collar. Working around collar sc in each st, but skip the posts. Continue to make 1 sc equally around till you come to the first st, sl st into first sc.

Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 2 sc. {Ch 2, sk 2 sc, sc in next 3 sc}.  Repeat {to} 3 more times, continue making 1 sc in each sc. On corner spaces make 3 sc. At end of round, sl st into first sc, finish off. Weave in all ends. Add buttons to match up with the button holes.

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I found this sweater at Value Village.

It has a cool pattern and it is bright, so bright I had a lot of trouble getting good pictures because it was so glaring.  I knew I wanted to do something fun with it. For Christmas my daughter got a new duvet for her bed, so I thought why not make a pillow to match her new duvet.


I started by adding fusible interfacing to the inside of the sweater where I wanted to  add the design.

Then I drew out my simple design on the interfacing. With the embroidery thread that I chose, I made a back stitch around all my lines.

I flipped it over so the pattern was showing. I made a satin stitch around all of the back stitches following the pattern. This fabric was very hard to work with for the satin stitch even with the interfacing, if I do this again I'm sure I will use a different stitch. For the last "stem" I used the fish tail stitch to give it a different look.

When I was done with the embroidery design, I straightened out the sweater and marked out a 16 1/2 by 16 1/2 inch square. I cut the the square out, then used my sewing machine to sew up 3 of the sides with the design facing in. I stuffed the pillow with fiber fill. To finish it off, I ladder stitched the opening closed. 

My Daughter loves her new pillow. She calls it her reading pillow. She says that it is perfect for leaning back on for reading a good book. I hope this brings you inspiration to think outside the box, when looking at clothes with patterns. Maybe they are not something you would wear, but they might serve another purpose.

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Crafty Containers

A Free Crochet Pattern

 Do you need a simple storage solution for your desk or shelves? This is a very easy project that can be done in a short amount of time. It uses an oatmeal container and some simple crocheting skills. They are sturdy and once you are done you cannot tell that they used to take up space in your pantry!

The Crafty Containers are another pattern that I am moving over from Crochetvolution. For this project I knew I wanted to make new samples and pictures. I chose bright colors in worsted cotton this time.

I still use these containers after 3 years, so it was time for an update. They sit at my sewing desk. The larger container is perfect for my Granny's old knitting needles. And the smaller container is perfect for hooks and loose notions.

Don't forget to add this pattern to your favorites on Ravelry.

Difficulty: Easy
Size: 18 oz oatmeal container cut to the size you would like
Materials:

• Any 4-ply worsted weight yarn in 2 colors 
• H/8 (5.00mm size) hook
• A cleaned out 18 oz oatmeal container

Gauge: After the first four rounds it should be the same size as the bottom of the container

Note: You can cut your container down to a size that you like but make sure you cut it down by inches. Also this will affect how many rows you will crochet.

Directions:

Outer layer

Round 1: With Color1, ch 4, make 9 dc in the 4th ch (the rest of the chs form the first dc) from hook, sl st into beg dc for a total of 10 dc.

Round 2: Ch 3 (counts as first dc here and throughout), dc in the same st, {make 2 dc in the next dc.} Repeat from *{to} 8 more times, sl st into beg st. (20dc)

Round 3: Ch 3, {make 2 dc in the next st, 1 dc in the next st.} Repeat from {to} 8 times, make 2 dc in last st, sl st in beg st. (30dc)

Round 4: Ch 1, sc in the same st, sc in the next st, make 2 sc in the next st. {Sc in the next 2 sts, make 2 sc in the next st}. Repeat from {to} 8 times, sl st into beg sc. (40 sc)

Round 5: Working in back loops only, ch 3. Dc in each st around, sl st into beg dc. (40 dc)

Rounds 6-17 (or till you reach the top of the container): Ch 3; dc in each st around, sl st into beg dc. (40 dc) At the end of your last row, finish off.

Inner layer

With Color 2, repeat Rnds 1-17 of Outer Layer (do not finish off). Insert the inner layer into the container and slip the outer layer over the container. Match up your edges, and crochet the two layers together in the next row.

Round 18: Ch 1, sc in the same st. Sc in each st around, sl st into beg sc. (40 sc)

Round 19: Ch 1, sc in the same st, sc in the next st. Sk 2 sc, ch 4. {Sc in the next 2 sc, sk 2 sc, ch 4}. Repeat from {to} 8 times, sl st into beg sc. (20 sc and 10 ch-sp)

Round 20: Sl st into the next sc and into the ch-sp, ch 1. {(Sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc) into the ch-sp}. Repeat from {to} 9 times, sl st into beg sc. (10 petals)

Round 21: Sl st into the next 2 sts, ch 1. {Sc in the dc, ch 4}. Repeat from  {to} 9 times, sl st into the beg sc. (10 ch-sp)

Round 22: Sl st into the ch-sp, ch 1. {(Sc, hdc, dc, ch 3, sl st into dc (picot made), hdc, sc) into the ch-sp}. Repeat from {to} 9 times, sl st into beg sc. (10 petals with picots) Finish off and weave in your ends, fold edge down over outside of container.

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Swift Chevron Hat: A Knitting Pattern

A Companion Pattern to the Swift Swirl Knitting Pattern

I think I say this about every pattern, but I am really excited about this pattern. When I made the Swift Swirl Pattern, I wanted to expand it to this pattern right away. It was just screaming to me that it needed more movement!

This one is not as swift as the first, but it is still a quick pattern to follow. You have to count your rows this time, but the idea is still the same. You are doing the same stitch over and over again and there are no yarn overs, increases or deceases that you have to worry about in the body of the hat and that is what makes it swift.

I love the chevron for this hat. In the pattern it is easily adaptable to make the chevrons as long or short as you like. When I see the chevron pattern I always think of Charlie Brown and his yellow shirt, Harry Potter and his scar, caution signs on the road, and afghans made by great grandma. What Do you always think of when you see the Chevron Pattern?

Materials Needed 

Needles: 6,0 mm/US 10 circular needles and a set of double point needles US 10 to finish it off.

Yarn: Lion Brand: Wool-ease

Notions: tapestry needle

Special stitches:

Right Twist (RT): Knit 2 together keeping both stitches on the left needle, knit into the first stitch, then pull both stitches onto the right needle, stitch complete. 

Left Twist(LT):  Knit through the back loop of the 2^nd st, keep the stitch on the left needle, knit in the first stitch, then pull both stitches onto the right needle, stitch complete. 

Sk2p: Slip stitch to the right needle, knit 2 stitches together, pass over slipped st over the 2 knit stitches.

Where Can I Get This Pattern?

This is a paid Pattern. I have put a lot of work into the PDF version of this pattern. There are pictures to follow and a written out pattern that is clear and precise. When you buy this pattern you will automatically receive the Swift Swirl pattern with it for FREE.
That is two patterns for the price of one. !!buy now !!

If You would like to go to my Ravelry Pattern Page first Go Here!

 

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Finding Inspiration In Nature

An Embroidery Tutorial

Don't you love all the flowers coming up. The Peonies down the street make me swoon, my favorite tiger lilies bloomed at the church next to us, and maybe the best thing is that the Black Eyed Susan's have popped up in my yard. I just could not resist stitching them up.

I might have to take more pictures as their seeds come in and stitch them up with lots and lots of french knots in the middle.

For now I want to take you through the steps of what I did to make this necklace happen. By the way, it is my daughter's last day of school tomorrow, and this beautiful necklace is going to her teacher, who has called my daughter Sunshine a few times. I thought this would be the perfect gift to remind her of the sunshine in her life.

First I drew out the rough design of what I wanted with a heat sensitive pen

Then I added the center stitches. I went with straight stitches, starting in the middle and working my way outwards. Starting with the light color first.

I worked 1 layer of woven picot petals equally around the center.

After the 8 petals, I went back through and filled in 6 more woven picot petals between the first set of petals.

I made 2 more woven picot petals in green for leaves. Then I chose 3 colors of green and filled in the background with the fishtail stitch and long stitches at random. When I was happy with the back ground I tacked down some of the picot petals in the positions that I wanted then to stay.

I hope you have found some inspiration to get outside and find wonders to stitch and treasure.

 

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Frozen Pizza Crust

The other day I wanted to make some bread sticks to go along with our spaghetti dinner.  I made the dough and let it sit. After an hour I checked on it and it was as flat as could be. I was so disappointed. Instead of just throwing the dough out and wasting it I made it into pizza crust that I put in the freezer to pull out for a quick pizza meal later in the week.

I started with the dough.

1 cup of hot water ( this was my trouble i had my water too hot and it killed my yeast)
1 packet of yeast
a pinch of sugar and salt
2 tablespoons of olive oil, plus some for the bowl
3 to 4 cups of flour

Mix all the ingredients in the order given. Slowly add the flour, kneading the dough for the last couple cups of flour. Pour extra oil in the bottom of the bowl and and turn your dough over in it. Let the dough sit covered for at least 30 minutes.

Divide the dough into 3 and spread out one of the rounds into an iron skillet or pizza pan. Poke it with a fork.

Cook the dough in a oven preheated to 425°F for 6 to 10 minutes, until the dough is firm and slightly browned. Repeat for the other 2 rounds.

Take them off the pan and let them cool. When they are cooled wrap them in foil and put them in a Ziploc bag. Place them in the freezer.




When you are ready to use the crusts, preheat the oven to 425°F. Add your toppings and put the pizza in the oven for 10 minutes or until the cheese has melted and it is golden brown.

The dough will become a cracker crisp crust and oh so good.

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Updated Lacy Japanese Lantern

I have always imagined these being strung about for a fancy garden party or outdoor wedding.  After 5 years and 3 moves I still have the lamp and it has held up well. I have it decorating my Mantel, especially at Christmas time where I add other smaller handmade ornaments and string them all along the large mirror perched on the mantel.

With this pattern I am half way through moving my patterns over from Crochetvolution. It is nice having all of my patterns in one location on my blog. 

Yarn: Size 10 crochet thread

Hook: Crochet steel hook size 7/1.65MM, 

Notions:

• sugar starch
• punch ball (large balloon toy)
• wax paper
• swag lamp kit
• 15 watt light bulb 

Where can I get the pattern?

This is a free pattern. Keep scrolling down to see it. If you would like to purchase an ad free and printer friendly PDF, you can buy one through my Ravelry Store. The pattern is $3.00 through paypal. Buy now

Copyright

Julia Schwartz. Do not reproduce, copy, distribute, or sell this pattern without permission of the designer. This pattern must not be translated, reproduced, or circulated in another language without prior consent. If you have questions about this pattern please contact me through e-mail.

Special stitches

Leaf stitch: 

Chain 5 {yo two times insert hook into 5^th chain from hook yo and pull through (A), yo, pull through two loops twice [you should have 2 loops on the hook (B&C)]} repeat once (3 loops) (D,E,F),  yo and pull through 2 loops 2 times (G&H). 

Picot: Chain 4 slip stitch into tr just made.

Tr3tog: {yo two times insert hook into desired stitch, yo and pull through, yo pull through two loops twice} repeat {to} 2 more times. You should have four loops on the hook, yo and pull through all four loops.

First Large Motif

Round 1: Ch 6, slip stitch into beginning ch, ch 8, {Tr ch 4 in ring}  repeat {to}  6 more times, slip stitch into 4^th ch at beginning. 8 Tr and 8 ch 4 spaces.

Round 2: Slip stitch into ch 4 space, ch 1, {5 sc in ch four space} repeat {to}  till end, slip stitch into first sc. 40 sc.

Round 3: Ch 1, sc in same stitch, {leaf stitch twice (one will be on top of the other) skip 4 sc, and sc in next stitch} repeat  {to}around to end, ending with 2 leaf stitches, slip stitch into beginning sc. 16 leaf stitches.

Round 4: Ch 5, {leaf stitch, tr between two leaf stitches of previous row, picot, leaf stitch, Dtr in sc,} repeat  {to} 6 times, end with leaf stitch, tr between two leaf stitches, picot, leaf stitch, slip stitch into 5^th chain of beginning stitch.

Round 5: Ch 8, {(tr3tog, chain 3 in picot of previous row), repeat  (to) 2 times. Dtr in dtr of previous row, chain 3}  repeat {to}  6 times, tr3tog, chain 3 three times, slip stitch into fifth chain at beginning. 24 tr3tog.

Round 6: Ch 8, (tr in tr3tog of last round, ch 4,) repeat (to) 2 more times, {tr in dtr of last round, (ch 4, tr in next tr3tog)  3 times, ch 4} repeat {to} to end. Slip st. into forth ch of beginning stitch. 

Round 7: Ch 1, slip st into ch space, *3 sc, 4 ch, 3 sc in each ch 4 space* repeat around. Slip st into beginning st. Finish off.

Second and Third Large Motif

Rounds 1- 6: Follow directions from first motif.

Round 7: Ch 1, slip stitch into ch space  {3 sc in ch space, ch 2 take needle out of loop insert needle into corresponding loop of next motif, and back onto the ch 2, draw through, ch 2, 3 sc in same ch 4 space as previous 3 sc.} repeat  {to} 3 more times. {3 sc, ch 4, 3 sc in next ch 4 space} repeat  {to} around. Slip st into beginning st. Finish off. 32 picots altogether, 28 free, 4 connected to first motif.

Fourth Motif

Rounds 1- 6: Follow directions from first motif.

Round 7: Ch 1, slip st into ch space, space {(3 sc in ch space, ch 2 take needle out of loop insert needle into corresponding loop of next motif, and back onto the ch 2, draw through, ch 2, 3 sc in same ch 4 space as previous 3 sc.) repeat (to) 3more times. (3 sc, ch 4, 3 sc) in next ch 4 space repeat (to) 12 times} Repeat starting back to the first repeat. Slip stitch into beginning st. Finish off.

After the fourth motif is made you should have the motifs connected in a circle. Fifth and sixth motifs will go on the top and the bottom.

Fifth and sixth Motif:

Rounds 1-6:

Round 7: Ch 1, slip st into ch space, space {(3 sc in ch space, ch 2 take needle out of loop insert needle into corresponding loop of 1^st motif, and back onto the ch 2, draw through, ch 2, 3 sc in same ch 4 space as previous 3 sc.) repeat (to) 3 more times. (3 sc, ch 4, 3 sc in next ch 4 space) repeat  (to) 3 more times} Repeat {to} 3 more times starting back to the first repeat, slip stitch into beginning st. Finish off.  

Before adding the small motifs, decide which holes will be used for the lamp. One hole will be left completely open, and the hole opposite of this will have the motif that the wiring will go through. Mark these with some string.

Lamp motif

Round 1: Ch 36, join together to form a ring, ch 1, {4 sc in ring, ch 2, take needle out of loop insert needle into the second right loop of one of the large motifs, draw through, ch 2, 4 sc in ring, ch 4}  repeat {to}  around. Slip st into beginning st.  48 sc and six connecting loops and six free loops

Small Motif: Make 6

Round 1: Make an adjustable ring, (ch 4, tr, ch 4, slip st into adjustable ring) 5 times. Ch 4, tr2 tog. Six petals made.

Round 2: Ch 1, sc in same space, ch 6, {sc in next tr, ch 6} repeat around. 6 sc and six 6 ch spaces.

Round 3: Slip st into ch space, ch 1, {4 sc, ch 2, take needle out of loop insert needle into the second right loop of one of the large motifs, draw through, ch 2, 4 sc in same ch 6 space. Ch 4, 4 sc, ch 2, take needle out of loop insert needle into the next loop of same large motif, ch 2, 4 sc in next ch 6 space.ch 4} repeat 2 more times. Slip st into beginning st. Finish off. Six connecting loops, six free loops.

Now it is time to starch the globe

To create the sugar starch required to harden the globe: Combine 1 cup of sugar with ½ cup of water. Heat the mixture on the stove until all of the sugar is dissolved. This will occur prior to the boiling point.

Carefully (due to the heat) soak the globe in the starch. Pull out the globe with tongs and squeeze out any extra starch with the tongs and your fingers (being careful not to burn your fingers). 

Insert the punch ball inside the globe and make sure that the rubber band (which is attached to the punch ball) is “sticking out” of the lamp motif. Blow up the punch ball so that the globe is slightly stretched. Tie a knot in the punch ball. 

Hang the globe up by the rubber band of the punch ball so that it will dry. Place wax paper or something under the globe to catch the dripping water. Air-drying will take approximately three days. 

When the globe is completely hardened, slowly release the air from the punch ball (I used scissors to cut the knot and then slowly pushed my fingers on the balloon so that it would peel off the starched thread. The balloon will be stuck to the thread, due to the hardened starch. Then I pulled the balloon out of the large hole of the globe). Make sure you do this slowly so the globe does not become misshapen.

Follow the manufacturing instructions when putting together the lamp. For fire safety, never use a bulb that is over 15 watts, and do not keep the lamp light “on” for long periods of time.    

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