Monday, March 17, 2014

Infant Hat in Simple Cables

A Free Crochet Pattern


I am starting the process of adding all of the patterns that I have designed for http://crochetvolution.com/ to my blog. They will still always be there at that site and the link on Ravelry will still always take you there, but I wanted to have my patterns all in one spot. At least with the ones that I am allowed to do that with.

I thought I would start with the first one and work my way down. Interestingly my very first pattern is still one of my most popular patterns. I guess it is a good one. You may find the wording a little different from the original pattern, but I hope it provides more clarity.

Where can I get this free crochet pattern?

This is available for a free pattern download through my Ravelry Store. 

Infant Hat in Simple Cables

Written by Julia Schwartz

SIZE

Head circumferences from 14 in.



FINISHED MEASUREMENT

 14 inch circumference (new born) use size G hook




MATERIALS




Hook size: G




PATTERN


Round one:


Ch 4, 11 dc in fourth ch from hook, sl st into

 3rd chain of beginning stitch. (Twelve stitches made.)

Round two:


Ch 3, make a dc in the same space, two dc in each of the remaining stitches, (24 dc total.)

Round three:


Ch 3, 1 dc in same space {skip 1 dc and tr in next stitch, go back to last stitch missed and tr, (2 dc in the next stitch) repeat (to)}, repeat {to} 4 times, sk 1 dc and tr in next stitch, go back to last stitch missed and tr, 2 dc in next stitch, slip stitch in starting ch 3. (6 crossover stitches, and 6 groups of 4 dc sts.)

Round four:


Ch 3, 1 dc in same stitch, and 1 dc in next stitch {sk one tr and tr in next front post, go back to the skipped stitch and tr in the front post, dc in the next 2 st, 2 dc in the next st, and 1 dc in next st} repeat  {to} 4 times, sk 1 dc,  tr in the next front post, go back to last stitch missed and tr in front post, dc in the next two stitches, sl st in the starting ch 3. (6 crossover sts, and 6 groups of 5 dc sts.)

Round five:


Ch 3, 1 dc in the same stitch {sk next stitch and tr in next, tr in the sk st, dc in the next 2 st, sk next stitch and tr in next st, tr in sk st, 2 dc in the next st}. Repeat {to} 5 times, sk next stitch and tr in next, tr in the sk st,  slip stitch into beginning ch 3. (12 crossed sts.)

Round six- ten:


Ch 3, 1 dc in the next stitch {sk next st and tr in the next front post, tr in the sk front post, dc in the next 2 st}, repeat {to} 10 times), sk next st and tr in the next front post, tr in the sk front post,  slip stitch into beginning ch 3.

Round eleven – thirteen:


Ch 1, sc in each stitch around, slip stitch into beginning chain. Finish off at the end of round thirteen. Weave ends
in. 

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Thursday, February 20, 2014

Super Chunky Twisty Neck Warmer

A Free Tunisian Crochet Pattern


I have this yarn:


I think that maybe it is rug yarn. I used to have a lot of this yarn. I tried making it into a rug, and it looked awful.
I threw it away.
I know "Bad Julia, Bad!"
You do not throw yarn away, even when it has been made into something awful. You could find another purpose for it.

I have been seeing these knitted neck warmers all over Pintrest and Etsy, and then my friend made one. I had to have one too. I would much rather crochet than knit so I hurried up and made a pattern for myself using Tunisian crochet. I am pretty happy with the results.

Where Can I Get This Pattern?

I have made a PDF Available for this Tunisian Crochet Pattern. This is a great option if you want to print it off, and it will be ads free. You can Find it in My Ravelry Store for $3.00.
<------>buy now<------> 
This is a free pattern here on the blog, Just keep scrolling down to find the pattern.


Super Chunky Twisty Neck Warmer

And an even better picture. Don't you think. Ha!



Yarn: Any chunky size 5 will do, You will need 70  to 100 grams of it.
Hooks: 8.00MM Tunisian hook and a K/10 ½ -6.50MM (or larger)
Gauge: 5 st and 5 rows = 2 inches
Special stitches: 
TPS:  (forward pass) Place yarn in front of your work, insert your hook into the left vertical bar of the st below, you and pull your yarn through.  
(Return pass): follow instructions in the pattern.

TKS: (Forward pass)working with the yarn behind your work, insert your hook between the vertical bars below the horizontal bars in the st below, yo, pull the yarn through, keep your loop on the hook.
(Return pass): follow instructions in the pattern.

Notes: This is worked flat then sewn together to add the edging in a round.

Pattern


Row 1: Ch 18, insert hook into the 2nd ch from the hook, yo, and pull through, (insert hook in the next ch, yo and pull through), repeat (to) till you have 18 loops on the hook

(Return pass): Yo, and pull through 1 loop, (yo and pull through 2 loops) repeat (to) till the row of loops are off the hook, and you are left with one loop on the hook.

Row 2 (forward pass): TPS in the next 5 st, TKS in the next 8 sts, TPS in the next 5 sts,

 (Return Pass): Yo, and pull through 1 loop, (yo and pull through 2 loops) repeat (to) till the row of loops are off the hook, and you are left with one loop on the hook.

Rows 3 -8: repeat row 2.

Row 9 Forward pass: with your normal crochet hook, TPS in the next 5 st, sk 4 st, TKS in the next 4 st, switching to the Tunisian hook, go back to the sk sts, TKS in the sk sts, TPS in the last 5 st.

 (Return Pass): Yo, and pull through 1 loop, (yo and pull through 2 loops) repeat (to) till the row of loops are off the hook, and you are left with one loop on the hook.

Rows 10- 21: Repeat row 2.

Row 22: Repeat row 9.

Continue repeating rows 10- 22 till you have 6 twists in your neck warmer or till you have you desired length.

Repeat row 2 for 3 more rows, finish off. Wip st both sides together.

Edging:
Round 1 (forward pass): Working around the sides, insert hook through each st, yo and pull loop through, keep the loop on the hook, all the way around till you come to the first one,

(Return pass): Yo, and pull through 1 loop, (yo and pull through 2 loops) repeat (to) till the row of loops are off the hook, and you are left with one loop on the hook, take you hook out of the loop, insert your hook in the last st, pull your loop through (this joins the round together.).

Round 2: Forward pass: TKS in each st around

(Return pass): Yo, and pull through 1 loop, (yo and pull through 2 loops) repeat (to) till the row of loops are off the hook, and you are left with one loop on the hook, take you hook out of the loop, insert your hook in the last st, pull your loop through (this joins the round together.). Finish off.

 Weave in all your ends.

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Tuesday, February 11, 2014

Peek-a-Boo Striped Blanket

A free Crochet Pattern


This is a fun little blanket to make. Maybe you don't know if the baby will be a boy or a girl, or maybe you just like lots of color; this blanket can adapt to either of those situations.

There is a lot of activity to keep you interested. Even though there is a lot going on nothing is overly complicated that you can't do it. This pattern is made in an eight row repeat, and 4 of those rows you are only double crocheting.  I love the extra row of striped yarn that is peeking out between the spiked stitches.  





Peek-a-boo Striped Blanket


Difficulty Level: Intermediate (I have placed it at intermediate because of the color changes and the fpdc to a lower row) 

Yarn: Georga yarn: bebe luv baby, 120g, 100% acrylic (1 ball pink), (1 ball blue), ( 1 ball baby combo)
 (Now I do have to say something about this yarn. I bought it at Wal-mart here in Canada. It had a crazy amount of knots in it, maybe I had the luck of the draw, but there was a lot. This was also some of the softest creamiest yarn I have worked with. It was also a great price. Each skein was under 3 dollars, and 10 cents of every ball gets donated to the Children's Miracle Network.)

Hook:  H/8- 5.00MM
Gauge: 5 sc st =1 inch, 6 sc rows = 1 inch
Size:  28 inches by 30 inches, If you want a larger size increase your stitches by 8s.

Blanket Pattern

Row 1:  With the blue, Ch 112, dc in 3rd ch from hook, for 109 dc total

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as first dc here and throughout), turn, dc in each st across for a total of 109 dc.

Row 3: Change to baby combo, Ch 1, turn, sc in the next 5 dc, {sk 1 dc, (dc, ch 2, dc) in the next dc, sk 1 dc, sc in the next 5 sc}, repeat {to} till the last st. (13 v st.)

Row 4: Change color to pink, Ch 1, turn, sc in first sc, spike st around dc post of dc two rows below, sk one sc, sc in next sc, sk one sc, fpdc  around dc post of dc two rows below (there will be a dc between the two fpdc), sc in the next sc, sc in the next dc, sc in the next ch 2 sp, sc in the next dc, sc in the next sc, {fpdc  around dc post of dc 2 rows below (there will be 5 dc between the last fpdc made),  sk one sc, sc in next sc, fpdc around dc post of dc two rows below (there will be a dc between the two fpdc), sk one sc , sc in the next sc, sc in the next dc, sc in the next ch 2 sp, sc in the next dc, sc in the next sc}, repeat {to} 11 times, fpdc around dc post of dc 2 rows below (there will be 5 dc between the last fpdc made),  sk one sc, sc in next sc, fpdc around dc post of dc two rows below (there will be a dc between the two fpdc) sk 1 sc, sc in the last sc.

Rows 5 and 6: Repeat row 2.

Row 7: Change to the baby combo color, ch 1, turn, sc in sc, {sk 1 dc, (dc, ch 2, dc) in next dc, sk 1 dc, sc in the next 5 sc} repeat {to} 12 more times, sk 1 dc, (dc, ch 2, dc) in the next dc, sk 1 dc, sc in the last dc.

Row 8: Change color to blue, ch 1, turn, {sc in the sc, sc in the next dc, sc in the ch 2 sp, sc in the next dc, sc in the next sc, fpdc in 6th dc from 2 rows down, sk 1 sc, sc in the next sc, fpdc in the dc 2 rows below, (there will be one dc between the last fpdc), sk 1 sc}, repeat {to} 12 more times, sc in the sc, sc in the next dc, sc in the ch 2 sp, sc in the next dc, sc in the last sc.

Rows 9 and 10: repeat row 2

Rows 11 – 111: repeat rows 3 through 10. At the end of row 111 finish off, and weave in your ends. For projects like this I like to weave in my ends right after I cut it to start a new color, so if you do this you will just have one end to weave in.

Edging:
With the Umber join at any corner, (sc, ch 1, sc) in the corner space, sc in each st evenly around, and in each corner space (sc, ch 1, sc). Continue this pattern for 4 rounds.

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