Showing posts with label join as you go motif. Show all posts
Showing posts with label join as you go motif. Show all posts

Monday, July 9, 2018

Vintage Nursery Blanket

A Free Tunisian Crochet Pattern




Someone gifted me some of their yarn stash. Some of it was 15 skeins of this vintage Patons yarn. It is a soft baby sport yarn that was begging to be a blanket. I wanted to design a blanket that could be easily broken into to parts to work on separately. In other words I wanted squares, that I could work on on the go and then add them all together when I was done. I also wanted the pattern to have a vintage feel to it to complement the yarn.


Obviously this yarn is no longer available, but you can substitute any baby sport yarn. Or If you want bigger squares you could pick out a worsted weight yarn. Each square took 1 ounce of yarn, so for a 12 square blanket you will need about 13 ounces, when you include the border.




Yarn: Patons Beehive Astra: 100 % acrylic baby sport weight, 1 oz, 13 skeins

Hook: 00/ 3.5 mm steel hook

Notions: Yarn Needle (to weave in your ends), and sew your squares together

Size: each square is 12 inches

Gauge: 8 tks and 8 rows equals 2 inches.

Stitches used and Special Stitches:

ch, sc, sc2tog, dc, and TKS

sc2tog: Insert hook into stitch, yo and pull through stitch, insert hook in next stitch, yo and pull through stitch, yo and pull through all the loops on the hook.

TKS: (Forward pass)working with the yarn behind your work, insert your hook between the vertical bars below the horizontal bars in the st below, yo, pull the yarn through, keep your loop on the hook.
(Return pass): follow instructions in the pattern.

Notes:
This blanket is worked in both Tunisian Crochet and regular crochet.

Copyright:
Julia Schwartz. Do not reproduce, copy, distribute, or sell this pattern without permission of the designer. This pattern must not be translated, reproduced, or circulated in another language without prior consent. If you have questions about this pattern please contact me through e-mail.

Where Can I get this pattern? 

This is a free pattern. Keep scrolling down to see this pattern. If you would like to purchase a pattern that is ads free and printer friendly for $3.00 you can through my Ravelry Store.

<----->buy now<---------->



Instructions

Starting Square


Row 1: Ch 8, insert your hook into each ch st, and pull up a loop. (8 loops on your hook)
(return pass): yo pull through 1 loop, {yo, pull through 2 loops} Repeat {to} until there is one loop left on the hook.

Row 2-8: (forward pass) TKS in the next 7 st (for a total of 8 loops on the hook)
(return pass) yo, pull through 1 loop, {yo and pull through 2 loops} repeat {to} until there is 1 loop on the hook. At the end of row 8 do not finish off. We will now work in the round.

Round 9: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), (dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in the starting st, ch 3, sk 2 sts, sc2tog in the next 2 sts, ch 3, sk 2 sts, {(2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in the next corner st, ch 3, sk 2 sts, sc2tog in the next 2 sts, ch 3, sk 2 sts} repeat {to} 2 more times, sl st into beg. dc.

Round 10: Sl st into the next dc and ch sp, ch 3, (dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in the ch 3 sp, ch 3, sk the 2 dc, sc in the next ch 3 sp, ch 3, sc in the next ch 3 sp, ch 3, {(2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in the corner ch 3 sp, ch 3, sk the 2 dc, sc in the next ch 3 sp, ch 3, sc in the next ch 3 sp, ch 3}, repeat {to} 2 more times, sl st into beg. dc.

Finish off.



Joining squares 2 and 3

Follow the instructions for first square for the rows 1- 8 and round 9

Round 10: Sl st into the next dc and ch sp, ch 3, (dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in the ch 3 sp, ch 3, sk the 2 dc, sc in the next ch 3 sp, ch 3, sc in the next ch 3 sp, ch 3, (2 dc, ch 1, sl st into ch 3 corner of first square, ch 1, 2 dc) in the ch 3 sp, ch 3, sk the 2 dc, sc in the next ch 3 sp, ch 1, sl st into the middle ch 3 of first square, ch 1, sc in the next ch 3 sp, ch 3, (2 dc, ch 1, sl st into the next ch 3 corner of first square, ch 1, 2 dc) in the ch 3 sp,  {ch 3, sk the 2 dc, sc in the next ch 3 sp, ch 3, sc in the next ch 3 sp, ch 3},(2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in the ch 3 sp repeat {to} sl st into beg. dc. 

Joining square 4

Follow the instructions for first square for the rows 1- 8 and round 9

Round 10: Sl st into the next dc and ch sp, ch 3, (dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in the ch 3 sp, ch 3, sk the 2 dc, sc in the next ch 3 sp, ch 3, sc in the next ch 3 sp, ch 3, {(2 dc, ch 1, sl st into ch 3 corner of first square, ch 1, 2 dc) in the ch 3 sp, ch 3, sk the 2 dc, sc in the next ch 3 sp, ch 1, sl st into the middle ch 3 of first square, ch 1, sc in the next ch 3 sp, ch 3}repeat {to}1 time, (2 dc, ch 1, sl st into the next ch 3 corner of first square, ch 1, 2 dc) in the ch 3 sp, ch 3, sk the 2 dc, sc in the next ch 3 sp, ch 3, sc in the next ch 3 sp, ch 3, sl st into beg. dc.

do not finish off

border around the attached squares


Row 1: Ch 1, sc in the next 2 dc, {3 sc in the ch 3 corner sp, sc in the next 2 dc, (3 sc in the next ch 3 sc) repeat (to) 2 times, sc in the next 2 dc, 1 sc in ch sp, 2 dc in the next 2 dc, (3 sc in the next ch 3 sc) repeat (to) 2 times, sc in the next 2 dc} repeat {to} 3 times, sl st into beg. st.

From here we will go back to working in Tunisian crochet.

 Row 1: (forward pass) ch 4, TKS in the next 3 sts, insert your needle in the the same stitch as your starting ch, yo and pull loop through the yarn, (5 loops on your hook)
(return pass) {yo and pull through 2 loops on your hook} repeat {to} until there is 1 loop left on the hook.

Row 2- 4: (forward pass) tKS in the next 3 sts, insert your needle in the next sc, yo and pull loop through the yarn
(Return pass) {yo and pull through 2 loops on your hook} rpeat {to} until there is 1 loop left on the hook.

Mitered Corner: 

Row 1: (forward pass) TKS in the next 3 sts,
(return pass), yo and pull through 1 loop on your hook, {Yo and pull through 2 loops on your hook}repeat {to} until there is 1 loop on the hook.

Row 2: (forward pass) TKS in the next 2 sts,
(return pass), yo and pull through 1 loop on your hook, {Yo and pull through 2 loops on your hook}repeat {to} until there is 1 loop on the hook.

Rows 3- 5: (forward pass) TKS in the next st,
(return pass), yo and pull through 1 loop on your hook, Yo and pull through 2 loops on your hook

Row 6: (forward pass) TKS in the next st, TKS in the missed stitch of row 2,
(return pass), yo and pull through 1 loop on your hook, {Yo and pull through 2 loops on your hook}repeat {to} until there is 1 loop on the hook.

Row 7: (forward pass) TKS in the next  2 st, TKS in the missed stitch of row 1,
(return pass), yo and pull through 1 loop on your hook, {Yo and pull through 2 loops on your hook}repeat {to} until there is 1 loop on the hook.

Row 8: (forward pass) TKS in the next 3 sts, insert hook into same stitch as the last stitch before the start of the mitered corner
(return pass), {Yo and pull through 2 loops on your hook}repeat {to} until there is 1 loop on the hook.

Repeat Rows 2-4 of the border stitch for 32 rows or until the next corner st.

At next corner stitch follow the directions of the mitered corner.

Keep repeating until the border is all the way around the square. Finish off with a long tail. Wip stitch the 1st row and the last row together with the long tail.

Assembling the squares


When all the squares are made, seam the squares together with your preferred method.
Sc around the seamed squares for 2 rounds. 
Finish off
Weave in your ends

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Tuesday, May 20, 2014

Girl Power Backpack

A Free Crochet Pattern

 

This Backpack is all about what little girls love. It's pink with lots of flowers and it can hold all the things they collect. Do your girls collect ALL THE THINGS like my girls do? Oh my some times I would rather avoid their room.

It has finally warmed up here in Toronto. We have moved into a neighborhood that has a lot of parks. There are four that we can go to that are in walking distance. We have been using this bag a lot. All of my daughter's park toys go in the bag and it sits by our front door ready to go. I have also been using my copy cat striped bag to hold my crocheting when we go to the park.


Girl Power Back Pack

Yarn: Lily: Sugar and cream: Worsted 4 ply cotton, 120 yrds./ 2.5 oz color: 1 skein: Soft Ecru, 1 skein: Hot Pink

Hook: I

Notions: safety pin, blunt needle

Size: Each motif is 5 inches. Bag is roughly 13 by 11.
 
Copyright 
Julia Schwartz. Do not reproduce, copy, distribute, or sell this pattern without permission of the designer. This pattern must not be translated, reproduced, or circulated in another language without prior consent. If you have questions about this pattern please contact me through my e-mail. 

Where Can I Get The Pattern

This is a free pattern. Keep scrolling down to see this free crochet pattern. If you would like to add the free downloadable pattern to your library through Ravelry You can here:download now



Pentagon Motif: (make 5 pink and make 5 ecru)

Round 1: Make an adjustable loop, ch 1,{sc in loop, ch 9, sc in loop} repeat 3 times for a total of 4 loops, ch 5, tr in starting sc pull adjustable loop tight. (5 loops total)

Round 2: ch 1, sc in ch loop just made, ch 6,{sc in next loop, ch 6} repeat around sl st into first sc. (5 sc, and 5 ch 6 spaces)

Round 3: Ch 1 slip st into sp, ch 1, {(3 sc, ch 3, 3 sc) in the 6 ch  space} repeat around, sl st into first sc.

Round 4: Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in next 2 sc,{(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next ch sp, dc in the next 6 sc,} repeat 3 more times, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc), in next ch sp, dc in the last 3 sc, sl st in first dc. Finish off. Weave in your end.

Putting the motifs together

Making sure as you go that all the motifs are facing the same way (or in other words that the point is facing the same way on all of them.)

Take 2 motifs and put them together backs facing each other and points going the same direction, and sc one side together. Finish off. Repeat this till you have a line of all 5 of the same color pentagons together. Then take the first and last and put them together with a row os sc. to complete the circle of pentagons. Repeat this with the next color.

Now to put the 2 colors together you will match up a point with a dip, and so forth. With the back sides facing each dc will line up with a sc, and each point space matches up with two dip spaces. (I’m sorry that sounds really confusing) SO, Start with sc in the next 10 dc, one sc for the sp or sps, sc in the next 10 dc. Repeat around, sl st in first sc. Finish off. Weave in you ends.

Bottom of the bag (in white)

Round 1: Make an adjustable loop, ch 3 (counts as first dc here and throughout) make 11 dc in the loop, pull loop tight and sl st into first dc (12 dc)

Round 2: Ch 3, dc in same st, 2 dc in each st around, sl st in first dc (24 dc)

Round 3: Ch 3, (2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next dc) repeat around 2 dc in last dc, sl st in first dc. (36)


Round 4: Ch 3, 1 dc in the next  dc, 2 dc in next dc, {dc in the next 2 dc, 2 dc in the next dc} repeat around, sl st into first dc. (48)

Round 5: Ch 3, 1 dc in the next 2 dc, 2 dc in the next dc, {dc in the next 3 dc, 2 dc in the next dc} repeat around, sl st into first dc. (60)

Round 6: Ch 3, 1 dc in the next 3 dc, 2 dc in the next dc, {dc in the next 4 dc, 2 dc in the next dc} repeat around, sl st into first dc. Do not finish off (72)

Connecting the motifs to the bottom of the bag


With back sides facing each other, sc both pieces together. Dc’s should match up with each st and sp.

Top of bag (pink)

Round 1: Joining around the back post of a dc in the white motifs,{bpdc in the next 10 dc, bpdc around the joining st of the 2 motifs,} repeat around,  sl st into beginning st.

Round 2- 4: Ch 3, dc in each bpdc around, sl st into beginning st. Finnish off weave in your ends.

Sew round 1 to round 4 making a space for the adjustable straps to go.

Straps

Making a large tail with both colors, form a slip knot and ch 180 ch, or till you have your desired length, finish off leaving a long tail.

With a safety pin work one side of the  straps around the top of the bag 1 and a half times, and make the straps even and then tie the long tails at even spots at the bottom of the back of the bag.

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