Etching Scarf

A Free Tunisian Crochet Pattern

I have a Men's Pattern for you today.

Funny Story, I finished the scarf and it just screamed, "I need tassels!" I asked my husband, "Is this scarf still manly if I add tassels?" He gave an automatic "no." "Will you still model it for me if it has tassels?" From the pictures below you will see that the answer is yes. If your husband is like mine you can leave the tassels off and it will still look fetching. Or you can leave them on for yourself and pick one of the other great colors in the Scarfie yarn line.

The whole time I was making this scarf it made me think about when I was in art class and learning about shading with a pencil. All those etched lines across a paper to make your silhouettes stand out. For this drawing  scarf the shading is created with mitered squares and then they are shaded in with entrelac triangles. This scarf works up fast. I as able to finish it in 2 nights. Then there was another 2 nights for blocking. This is a very do-able project for a last minute Christmas gift. 

 Where Is This Pattern Available

This is a free Pattern right here on the blog. Just keep scrolling down to find the pattern. If you would like an ads free, printer friendly PDF version I have them for sale in my Ravelry Shop for $3.00.
<---------->buy now <---------->

If you like this pattern be sure to subscribe to Designs by Diligence to get notified when new patterns come out. The only time you will get an email is when a new post happens on the blog, usually on Tuesday.

You can also follow me through my social media sites. I love sharing sneak peeks, wips, and fiber arts news and projects.
Facebook
Instagram
Pinterest 

Etching Scarf Pattern

Yarn: Lion Brand yarns: Scarfie Size 5/ bulky 78% acrylic, 22% wool 5.3 oz, 150g. 1 ball, color cream/black

Hook: K- 10.5 (6.5mm) (Even though this is Tunisian crochet all of your stitches will fit on a normal hook).
Notions: yarn needle to weave in your ends, hard back book to make your tassels.
Size: 80 by 5 inches (after blocking)
Gauge: each square is 4 by 4 before blocking. 6 TKS and 8 rows equals 2 inches
Special Stitches:
TKS: (Forward pass)working with the yarn behind your work, insert your hook between the vertical bars below the horizontal bars in the st below, yo, pull the yarn through, keep your loop on the hook.
(Return pass): follow instructions in the pattern.
Copyright:
Julia Schwartz. Do not reproduce, copy, distribute, or sell this pattern without permission of the designer. This pattern must not be translated, reproduced, or circulated in another language without prior consent. If you have questions about this pattern please contact me through e-mail.

Notes: You will make all of the squares first and then go back and add the triangles. If you would like to see pictures of my process of making mitered corners you can check out my tutorial in Mitered Corners Blanket.

Instructions: 

The Squares:

Row 1: (Forward pass) Ch 10, pull up a loop in each ch for a total of 10 loops
(return pass) yo, pull through 1 loop, ( yo, pull through 2 loops) Repeat (to) to the last loop.

Row 2:  (Forward pass) TKS for 8 sts.
(Return pass) yo, pull through 1 loop, ( yo, pull through 2 loops) Repeat (to) to the last loop.

Row 3: (forward pass) TKS for 7 sts.
(Return pass) yo, pull through 1 loop, ( yo, pull through 2 loops) Repeat (to) to the last loop.

Row 4: (Forward pass) TKS for 6 sts.
(Return pass) yo, pull through 1 loop, ( yo, pull through 2 loops) Repeat (to) to the last loop.

Row 5: (forward pass) TKS for 5 sts.
(Return pass) yo, pull through 1 loop, ( yo, pull through 2 loops) Repeat (to) to the last loop.

Row 6: (forward pass) TKS for 4 sts.
(Return pass) yo, pull through 1 loop, ( yo, pull through 2 loops) Repeat (to) to the last loop.

Row 7: (forward pass) TKS for 3 sts.
(Return pass) yo, pull through 1 loop, ( yo, pull through 2 loops) Repeat (to) to the last loop.

Row 8: (forward pass) TKS for 2 sts.
(Return pass) yo, pull through 1 loop,  (yo, pull through 2 loops) Repeat (to) to the last loop.

Row 9 - 11: (forward pass) TKS for 1 st.
(Return pass) yo, pull through 1 loop, yo, pull through 2 loops

Row 12: (forward pass) TKS for 1 st, TKS in sk st of row 8
(Return pass) yo, pull through 1 loop,  (yo, pull through 2 loops) Repeat (to) to the last loop.

Row 13: (forward pass) TKS for 2 sts, TKS in sk st of row 7
(Return pass) yo, pull through 1 loop, ( yo, pull through 2 loops) Repeat (to) to the last loop.

Row 14: (forward pass) TKS for 3 sts, TKS in sk st of row 6

(Return pass) yo, pull through 1 loop, ( yo, pull through 2 loops) Repeat (to) to the last loop.

Row 15: (forward pass) TKS for 4 sts, TKS in sk st of row 5
(Return pass) yo, pull through 1 loop, ( yo, pull through 2 loops) Repeat (to) to the last loop.

Row 16: (forward pass) TKS for 5 sts, TKS in sk st of row 4

(Return pass) yo, pull through 1 loop, ( yo, pull through 2 loops) Repeat (to) to the last loop.

Row 17: (forward pass) TKS for 6 sts, TKS in sk st of row 3

(Return pass) yo, pull through 1 loop, ( yo, pull through 2 loops) Repeat (to) to the last loop.

Row 18: (forward pass) TKS for 7 sts, TKS in sk st of row 2

(Return pass) yo, pull through 1 loop, ( yo, pull through 2 loops) Repeat (to) to the last loop.

Row 19: (forward pass) TKS for 8 sts, TKS in sk st of row 1

(Return pass) yo, pull through 1 loop, ( yo, pull through 2 loops) Repeat (to) to the last loop.

Row 20: Ch 1, turn sl st in the next 10 st up the side of the square to the opposite corner

Repeat row 1-20 for a total of 14 squares. 

At the end of square 14 do not make row 20. 

Do not Finish off. 

1st set of triangles:

Row 1: (Forward pass) pull up a loop in the next 9 st, pull up a loop from the next square (there will be 11 loops on the hook)

(return pass) (yo, pull through 2 loops) 8 times, yo, pull through 3 loops

Row 2: (Forward pass) sk 1 st, pull up a loop in the next 8 st, pull up a loop from the next square

(return pass) (yo, pull through 2 loops) 7 times, yo, pull through 3 loops

Row 3: (Forward pass) sk 1 st, pull up a loop in the next 7 st, pull up a loop from the next square

(return pass) (yo, pull through 2 loops) 6 times, yo, pull through 3 loops

Row 4: (Forward pass) sk 1 st, pull up a loop in the next 6 st, pull up a loop from the next square

(return pass) (yo, pull through 2 loops) 5 times, yo, pull through 3 loops

Row 5: (Forward pass) sk 1 st, pull up a loop in the next 5 st, pull up a loop from the next square

(return pass) (yo, pull through 2 loops) 4 times, yo, pull through 3 loops

Row 6: (Forward pass) sk 1 st, pull up a loop in the next 4 st, pull up a loop from the next square

(return pass) (yo, pull through 2 loops) 3 times, yo, pull through 3 loops

Row 7: (Forward pass) sk 1 st, pull up a loop in the next 3 st, pull up a loop from the next square

(return pass) (yo, pull through 2 loops) 2 times, yo, pull through 3 loops

Row 8:(Forward pass) sk 1 st, pull up a loop in the next 2 st, pull up a loop from the next square

(return pass) (yo, pull through 2 loops) 1 time, yo, pull through 3 loops

Row 9: (forward pass) sk 1 st, pull up a loop in the next st, pull up a loop from the next square

(return pass) Yo, pull through 3 loops

Row 10: (forward pass) pull up 1 loop

(return pass) yo, pull through 2 loops

Repeat rows 1-10 12 times

Finish off.

2nd set of Triangles

Rotate to the other side

Insert into the corner st with a sl st and repeat instructions of the 1st set of Triangles.

Weave in your ends and block to proper size.

More Patterns You Will Love

In a Flash Mitered Corners Blanket

Iris Crochet Edging

Painted Sunflower

A free Crochet Pattern

Of all of my designs, I think this is one of my favorites. I made this sunflower to hang in my bathroom in 2012 and it is still in my bathroom, even after 4 moves. Yikes lets not talk about how I have moved 4 times in the last 5 years. This is one of the last patterns I am moving over from Crochetvotution . After this pattern there is only one left, and it is a Christmas pattern, so I might wait a little while to put that one up.

There it is hanging in my bathroom for proof.

This pattern is a little unconventional. You don't see crochet projects as stiff wall hangings that have been painted, and I think that's why I like it so much. It is different and it showcases crochet and fiber art in a different way.

This sunflower is easy and fast to work up since you are using 2 strands of cotton thread at the same time. What takes this project time is the drying time for the starch and paint, so don't let the amount of time scare you; it mostly takes that long because it is sitting there drying.

Designer: Julia Schwartz
Time to complete: one week, (3 to 6 hours for the crochet, 48 to 36 hours of drying time, 1 hour of painting, and another 24 hours of drying.)
Hook: size 4/2.00mm steel crochet hook,
Yarn: Size 10 crochet thread (two balls),
Materials used:

• sugar,
• water, 
• wax paper, 
• Folk art acrylic paint Sunny yellow, and burnt sienna), 
• Apple Barrel colors craft paint ( apricot, and goose feather), 
• 2 ½ paint brush 

Finished Size:  11 in. circumference
Crocheting Note: Two strands of string will be used at the same time.
Special stitches:
picot: Chain 4 slip stitch in forth chain from hook.

Copyright: 
Julia Schwartz. Do not reproduce, copy, distribute, or sell this pattern without permission of the designer. This pattern must not be translated, reproduced, or circulated in another language without prior consent. If you have questions about this pattern please contact me through e-mail.

Where Can I Get This Pattern?

This is a Free Crochet Pattern. So just keep scrolling down to find this pattern. I also have this pattern available for a PDF download through my Ravelry Store. For $3.00 you can have this Pattern that is printer friendly and ads free.
<---------------> buy now <------------>
You can purchase through this link or you can start at my Ravelry store.

Painted Sunflower Pattern

Flower center 

Round one: Chain 8, slip stitch into beginning chain to form a ring, ch 3 (counts as first dc), 11 double crochet around ring, slip stitch in beginning chain 3. (12 double crochet made).

Round two: Chain 8, slip stitch in 4th chain from hook (picot made), chain 1, double crochet in starting stitch, {Double crochet, chain 1, picot, chain 1 double crochet in next stitch} repeat {to}until end of round, slip stitch in 3rd chain of beginning stitch. (12 picots)

Round three: Chain 9 slip stitch in 4th chain from hook (picot made), chain 1, 2 treble crochet in next double crochet, picot, treble crochet in next stitch, {chain 1, picot, chain 1, 2 treble crochet in next stitch, picot 1 treble crochet in next stitch} repeat {to} to end of round. End with picot, chain 1, slip stitch in beginning chain 4. (24 picots)

Round four: Chain 6, 1 treble crochet, picot, 1 treble crochet in same stitch, chain 2, skip one treble crochet and one picot, {1 treble crochet, picot, 1 treble crochet in next treble crochet} Repeat {to}to end. End with skip one treble crochet, picot, treble crochet in next treble crochet, slip stitch in 4th chain at beginning. (24 picots)

Round five: Chain 4, 2 treble crochet in chain two, (chain 2, 3treble crochet in next chain two space) repeat around, end with chain two, slip stitch in beginning treble crochet. (24 3 tr groups)

Round six: Chain 1, 1 single crochet in beginning stitch 2 single crochet in next stitch, 1 single crochet in next, 4 single crochet in chain two space, ( 1 single crochet, 2 single crochet in one stitch, 1 single crochet, 4 single crochet in chain two space) Repeat to end slip stitch in beginning stitch.
Do not finish off.

Petals 

First petal
Row one through twelve: Chain 1, 1 single crochet in same stitch, (chain 3 skip one stitch 1 single crochet) Repeat 10 times, chain 1 skip one stitch, 1 half double crochet. You should have twelve loops {chain 3, turn, 1 single crochet in next loop, (chain 3, 1 single crochet in next loop) Repeat (to) 9 times, chain 1, 1 half double crochet in last loop} keep repeating till one loop is left, decreasing one loop each row up,
Finish off.

Second petal through eighth petal:
Insert thread with a slip stitch into last single crochet used in flower center. Follow the directions in petal one.

Edging 

Insert thread with a slip stitch into any chain 2 space on petals, 2 single crochet in each loop around, when you come to the tip 3 single crochet, chain 1, 3 single crochet. When you have gone all the way around, slip stitch into beginning round, finish off.
Weave in all ends.

Starching

 I like using sugar starch.
You will need handy some cardboard covered with wax paper.
Mix 1 cup of sugar with ½ a cup of water, put it over medium heat, and stir it until the sugar melts and becomes translucent, this will happen right before boiling.
Take the starch off of the heat.
Soak your sunflower in the starch, making sure all parts of it is saturated. It will be hot and sticky so take caution when taking it out, ring out or let it drip off all excess starch.
 Place it on the wax paper covered cardboard stretch and pin the center of the flower into a tight circle, Arrange the petals to your liking and make sure all of the picots are standing up.
Depending on the weather it should dry and harden in 48 to 72 hours.

Painting
Starting with the burnt sienna and a ½ brush, paint the center of the flower. When that is dry paint the picots with goose feather, go back with a dry brush and brush on the wet goose feather onto the burnt sienna. Next paint the petals with the apricot, then highlight with the sunny yellow. Allow another 24 hours to dry.

 More Crochet Patterns You will Love:

Crafty Containers

Messenger Envelope tablet Case

Iris Crochet Edging

  A Free Crochet Pattern

Sometimes you have to join two worlds to make something great. I had an idea in my head and it just needed knit and crochet to make it happen. I wanted a cowl with a beautiful drape, and with a feminine lace to finish it off.   I also wanted something light for those cool late summer nights that happen here in Toronto because of the lake.

Light and with lots of drape meant this was going to be a knit cowl. I wanted the lace to come to points, and with knitting you can be pretty limited on coming to points, so that means the lace would have to be crochet.

Then I was in a conundrum. How would I promote my new pattern? Most sites want either knit or crochet not both at the same time. So I have decided to promote just the edging.

The cowl is a perfect pattern for someone who crochets and is wanting to try out knitting. There is no easier knitting pattern out there. Just cast on the amount of stitches you want and then knit until you reach 30 inches.

The crochet edging is a simple shell pattern. The only stitches used are sc, dc, ch, and picot. Lace doesn't have to be complicated to look beautiful. Another great part of this lace is that you can make it as long as you like. The body of the lace is a 2 row pattern repeat that ends with a big finish to really make it stand out.

  


Designer Julia Schwartz
Yarn: 100% Merino Wool: Lace weight, color beige
Hook: 00/3.5mm Steel hook
Notions: yarn needle
Size: minimum height is 2 ½ inches
Gauge: 2 shells and 6 rows is 2 inches
Special Stitches:
Picot: Ch 3, sl st into the st just completed.

Notes: The cowl is worked with a knit garter stitch. the needles were US 7/ 4.5mm. I cast on 40 stitches using the twisted German cast on and I knit stitched til it was 30 inches long. I then wip stitched the two ends together. The edging is worked with crochet.

Copyright: Julia Schwartz. 
Do not reproduce, copy, distribute, or sell this pattern without permission of the designer. This pattern must not be translated, reproduced, or circulated in another language without prior consent. If you have questions about this pattern please contact Julia.diligence@gmail.com.

 

Purchase This Pattern

This is a free Pattern! Keep scrolling down to see this free crochet pattern.

If you would like to purchase a printer friendly, ads free version there is one available in my Ravelry Store. Most of my patterns are $3.00.
<---> buy now  <---->
the link will take you through the buying process, or you can start at Ravelry if you prefer.

 

 

Edging Pattern: 

Row 1: Attach yarn with a ch, sc in same st, {ch 3, sk 2 st, sc in the next st}, Repeat {to} till the end of the row, sl st into starting sc.

Row 2: Sl st into first ch 3 loop, ch 1, {sc in the ch 3 loop, (5 dc) in the next ch 3 loop (shell made)}, Repeat {to} til the end of the row, sl st in to the beg. St.

Row 3: Ch 3, {sk 2 dc, (sc, ch 3, sc) in next dc, (dc, ch 3, dc) in the next sc}, Repeat {to} till last shell, (sc, ch 3, sc) in middle dc of shell, (dc, ch 3) in the last sc, sl st in beg. St.

Row 4: Sl St in to ch 3 sp. On top of shell, ch 1, sc in same sp, (5 dc) in next ch 3 sp, {sc in the next ch 3 sp, (5dc) in the next ch 3 sp} Repeat {to} till the end of the row, sl st into first sc.

Continue repeating Row 3 and 4 till 1 inch from desired length of edging.

Row 5: Ch 3, {sk 2 dc, (sc, ch 7, sc) in next dc, (dc, ch 3, dc) in the next sc}, repeat {to} till last shell, (sc, ch 7, sc) in middle dc of shell, (dc, ch 3) in last sc, sl st in beg. St.

Row 6: Sl st into ch 7 sp, ch 3, (5 dc, picot, 5 dc) in the ch 7 sp, {sc in the ch 3 sp, (6 dc, picot, 5 dc) in ch 7 sp} repeat {to} the end of the row, sc in the last ch 3 sp, sl st into the first ch 3.

Finish off. Weave in your ends.

Subscribe and Stay Active 

What will you use this Crochet edging for?
 I'd love to here your ideas and what you would plan to do. Add a comment and let me know.
Also If you would like to see more great patterns, tutorials and ideas subscribe to Designs by Diligence
 Subscribe in a reader
or  follow me in any of my social media sites.
Go here for a list of my social media sites.

More Free Crochet Patterns You Will Love: 

  

Your Slip is Showing Crochet Edging



Twists and Bows Cowl

Pin For Later!

Minnesota Layette Set

A Free Crochet Pattern Pack

I'm Bringing over another pattern (or three) from the Crochetvolution files. I debated on if I would divide this one up or not but I decided to keep them together. I am making them available in my Ravelry Store as an ebook download. And it is huge coming in at 6 pages. It is also here on the blog so just keep scrolling down to read the pattern.
 Ravelry Store

download now




Materials:

• Lion Brand Pound of love [100 % Acrylic; 1020yd/932m per skein]; color: beige; baby blue [1,1]skeins
• H/8 (5.00mm) hook
• 4 small buttons
• Yarn Needle

Size: Blanket – Toddler size, Hat – Newborn, Sweater – Newborn

Finished Measurements:
Hat: 14″ circumference
Sweater: Chest – 16 inches
Gauge: 12 dc/5 rows = 4″

Note: Every two rows you will be switching colors. If you want to keep the long sc as the same color underneath it you will make 2 rows one color then switch. If you would like to have the long sc a
different color than what is underneath start with one color, in row 2 switch colors, then start switching
colors every 2 rows.

Special Stitches
Popcorn stitch: make 4 dc in space indicated, sl st into first of 4 dc made
Long sc: In the indicated stitch make a sc in post of stitch indicated in pattern (usually two or three rows down), pulling your strings up to meet the row you are working in making the sc long. Skip the st in the row you are working that you would normally work in(unless the pattern says otherwise like in the hat pattern).

Directions:

Blanket

 

Row 1: With beige, fdc 110.

Row 2: (Right side) Sc in each stitch across.

Row 3: Switch colors without finishing off, continuing to carry it up at every change (continue doing this throughout the layette set unless told otherwise). Ch 3 (counts as dc here and throughout), dc in next 4 dc, {popcorn st in next st, dc in next 10 st.}Repeat  {to} 8 times, popcorn st, dc in next 5 dc (10 popcorn st.)

Row 4: Ch 1, turn. Sc in same st, sc in next 3 st. {Long sc around post of dc below st in row 1, skip sc you would have gone in, sc in next st, long sc around post of dc below st in row 1,skip sc you would
have gone in, sc in next 8 stitches.} Repeat {to} 8 times, long sc, sc ,long sc, sc in next 3 st.

Row 5: Change color. Dc in each st across.

Row 6: Ch 1, turn. Sc in same st, sc in next 3 st. {Long sc around post of long sc of previous row, skip sc you would have gone in, sc in next stitch, long sc around post of long sc of previous row, skip sc you would have gone in, sc in next 8 st.} Repeat {to} 8 times, long sc, sc, long sc, sc in next 3 st.

Row 7: Switch colors without finishing off, continuing to carry it up at every change. Ch 3, dc in next 4 dc, {popcorn st in next st, dc in next 10 st.}  Repeat {to} 8 times, popcorn st, dc in next 5 dc (10 popcorn st.)

Row 8: Repeat Row 6.

Row 9 to end: Repeat Rows 5-8, finishing with Row 6 in beige at Row 118.

Edging:

Rnd 1: Switch to blue; do not turn. Ch 1, sc in same st. Working down the long side, make 1 sc in each sc and 2 sc in each dc, working your way to the corner. In the corner make 3 sc. Continue making sc in each st across, making 3 sc in each corner, at the end make one sc in same st as the first sc, sl st into first sc to join.

Rnd 2: Ch 5, 2 dc in same st, dc in each st around. At corner st, make 2dc, ch 2, 2 dc. Continue around to beginning st, 1 dc in first st, sl st in beginning dc. Finish off.

Hat

 

Rnd 1: Ch 4, join with sl st in first ch to form a ring. Ch 1, make 8 sc in ring, sl st into first sc. (8 sc)

Rnd 2: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in same st, 2 dc in each st around, sl st into first st. (16 dc)

Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc in same st. {Make 2 sc in next st, sc in next st.} Repeat {to} around, ending with 2 sc, sl st into first sc. (24 sc)

Rnd 4: Ch 3, dc in next sc. {Make 2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 2 st.}  Repeat {to} around ending with 2 dc, sl st into first sc. (32 dc)

Rnd 5: Change color, ch 1, sc in same st and in next 3. Long sc into post of corresponding dc in round 2, {sc in the st you would have skipped, sc in next 3 st, skipping 1 dc, long sc into next dc}, repeat {to} around, sl st into first sc. (40 sc)

Rnd 6: Change colors, ch 3, dc in next 3 st, 2 dc in long sc.{Dc in next 4 st, 2 dc in long sc} repeat {to} around, sl st into first st. (48dc)

Rnd 7: Ch 1, sc in same st and in each st around, sl st into first sc. (48 sc)

Rnd 8: Ch 3, dc in each st around, sl st into first st.

Rnd 9: Change colors, ch 1, sc in same st, and in next 2, long sc into dc of row 6, skip sc that you would have worked into, {sc in 3 sc, long sc into dc of row 6, skip sc that you would have worked into (there will be 3 dc in-between the long sc’s.)} repeat {to} around, sl st into first sc. (12 long sc)

Rnd 10: Repeat Rnd 8.

Rnd 11: Change colors, ch 1, sc in same st and in next 2. Long sc into post of long sc of previous row, {sc in 3 sc, long sc} repeat {to} around, sl st into first st.

Rnds 12-17: Repeat Rnds 10-11. Follow picture for when to change colors. Rounds 5, 6, 9, 12,
13, 15, 16, 17, are the rounds that you will change. Finish off and weave in all ends.

Sweater

 

Note: Switch colors every two rows. If you want to keep the long sc as the same color underneath it you will make 2 rows one color then switch. If you would like to have the long sc a
different color than what is underneath start with one color, in row 2 switch colors, then start switching colors every 2 rows. Make note that doing it this way your colors will not match up when you sew up the seams of the sweater.

Row 1: Make 32 fdc.

Row 2: Ch 1, turn (right side). Sc in same st and sc in each st across. (32 st.)

Row 3: Ch 3 (counts as dc here and throughout) turn, dc in next st and each st across. (32 st)

Row 4: Ch 1, turn, sc in same st, and sc in next 3 sc. {Make 1 long sc around corresponding dc in row 1, skip sc that you would have gone in, sc in next sc, long sc around corresponding dc in row 1}, sc in next 18 sc. Repeat {to} , sc in next 4 st. (28 sc 4 long sc)

Row 5: Repeat Row 3.

Row 6: Ch 1, turn. Sc in same st, and sc in next 3 sc. {Make 1 long sc around post of corresponding long sc of last row, skip sc that you would have gone in, sc in next sc, long sc around post of corresponding long sc of last row}, sc in next 7 sc, long sc in next st, sc in next 2 sc, long sc, sc in next 7 sc, repeat {to}, sc in next 4 st. ( 26 sc, 6 long sc)

Row 7-12: Repeat Rows 5 and 6.

Row 13: Repeat Row 3.

Row 14: Ch 17, turn sc in each ch across. Repeat row 4, make 14 fsc.

Row 15: Repeat row 3. (66 st)

Row 16: Ch 1, turn, sc in same st and in next 20 st. Make long sc, sc, long sc, sc in next 18 sc. Make long sc, sc, long sc, sc in last 21 st. (62 sc, 4 long sc)

Row 17: Repeat Row 15.

Row 18: Ch 1, turn, sc in same st, sc in next 20 sc, long sc, sc, long sc, sc in next 3 sc. Leaving all other spaces empty, start next row. (This will be considered the right side.) (27 st)

Row 19: Ch 3. Dc in each st across.

Row 20- 23: Repeat Rows 18 and 19.

Row 24: Ch 1, turn, sc in same st, sc in next 20 sc, long sc, sc, long sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 fsc

Row 25: Repeat Row 19. (29 st)

Row 26: Ch 1, turn, sc in same st, sc in next 20 sc, long sc, sc, long sc, sc in next 5 sc, make 2 fsc.

Row 27: Repeat Row 19. (31 st)

Row 28: Ch 1. turn, sc in same st, sc in next 20 sc, long sc, sc, long sc, sc in next 3 sc, long sc in dc of row 25, sc in next 3 sc, make 2 fsc.

Row 29: Repeat Row 19. (33 st)

Row 30: Ch 1, turn, sc in same st, sc in next 20 sc, long sc, sc, long sc, sc in next 3 sc, long sc, sc, long sc in dc of 27, sc in next 3 sc.

Row 31: Ch 3, dc in next 15 st. (16 st)

Row 32: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 3 sc,* long sc, sc, long sc, sc in next 3 sc,* repeat.

Row 33- 42: Repeat Rows 31 and 32. Finish off.

Left Side:

 

Starting back at Row 18, skip 12 unused dc, join with beige with a sc, sc in next 2 st, long sc, sc, long sc,sc in next 20 sc.

Row 19: Ch 3 turn, dc in each st across.

Row 20: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 2 st, long sc, sc, long sc, sc in next 21 sc.

Row 21: Repeat Row 19.

Row 22: Repeat Row 20.

Row 23: Repeat Row 19.

Row 24: Ch 3, turn, sc in second ch from hook, and next ch, sc in next 3 sc, long sc, sc, long sc, sc in next 21 st.

Row 25: Repeat Row 19.

Row 26: Ch 3, turn, sc in second ch from hook, and next ch, sc in next 5 sc, long sc, sc, long sc, sc in next 21 st.

Row 27: Repeat Row 19.

Row 28: Ch 3, turn, sc in 2nd ch from hook, and next ch, sc in next 3 sc, long sc into dc from row 25, sc in next 3 sc, long sc, sc, long sc, sc in next 21 st.

Row 29: Repeat Row 19.

Row 30: Ch 1, turn, sc in same st, sc in next 3 st, long sc into dc of row 27, sc, long sc into long sc, sc in next 3 sc, long sc, sc, long sc, sc in next 21 st. Finish off both colors.

Row 31: Turn. Skip 16 sc, join and ch 3 in next st, dc in next st across.

Row 32: Ch 1, sc in same st, *sc in next 3 sc, long sc, sc, long sc* repeat *to * sc in next 3 sc.

Row 33: Ch 3 in next st, dc in next st across.

Row 34-42: Repeat Rows 32 and 33.

Finishing: Fold sweater along sleeves and sew up the sides and the arms.

Sleeve Edging:

Rnd 1: Join with a sc at the left side of the seam with the right side facing. Make an even amount of sc around the sleeve, making sure to weave in the loose yarn ends as you go around. Sl st into first sc.

Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in each sc around. Sl st in beginning sc, finish off.
Repeat for other sleeve.

Sweater Edging:

Rnd 1: Starting at bottom of the sweater (so you will work your way up the collar and around with right side facing), ch 1. Make 2 sc in same st, make 2 sc in each dc post, 1 sc in each sc post. Repeat till collar. Working around collar sc in each st, but skip the posts. Continue to make 1 sc equally around till you come to the first st, sl st into first sc.

Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 2 sc. {Ch 2, sk 2 sc, sc in next 3 sc}.  Repeat {to} 3 more times, continue making 1 sc in each sc. On corner spaces make 3 sc. At end of round, sl st into first sc, finish off. Weave in all ends. Add buttons to match up with the button holes.

More Free Crochet Patterns You Will Love

 The Love Patch

Bullion Butterfly Beanie

Updated Lacy Japanese Lantern

I have always imagined these being strung about for a fancy garden party or outdoor wedding.  After 5 years and 3 moves I still have the lamp and it has held up well. I have it decorating my Mantel, especially at Christmas time where I add other smaller handmade ornaments and string them all along the large mirror perched on the mantel.

With this pattern I am half way through moving my patterns over from Crochetvolution. It is nice having all of my patterns in one location on my blog. 

Yarn: Size 10 crochet thread

Hook: Crochet steel hook size 7/1.65MM, 

Notions:

• sugar starch
• punch ball (large balloon toy)
• wax paper
• swag lamp kit
• 15 watt light bulb 

Where can I get the pattern?

This is a free pattern. Keep scrolling down to see it. If you would like to purchase an ad free and printer friendly PDF, you can buy one through my Ravelry Store. The pattern is $3.00 through paypal. Buy now

Copyright

Julia Schwartz. Do not reproduce, copy, distribute, or sell this pattern without permission of the designer. This pattern must not be translated, reproduced, or circulated in another language without prior consent. If you have questions about this pattern please contact me through e-mail.

Special stitches

Leaf stitch: 

Chain 5 {yo two times insert hook into 5^th chain from hook yo and pull through (A), yo, pull through two loops twice [you should have 2 loops on the hook (B&C)]} repeat once (3 loops) (D,E,F),  yo and pull through 2 loops 2 times (G&H). 

Picot: Chain 4 slip stitch into tr just made.

Tr3tog: {yo two times insert hook into desired stitch, yo and pull through, yo pull through two loops twice} repeat {to} 2 more times. You should have four loops on the hook, yo and pull through all four loops.

First Large Motif

Round 1: Ch 6, slip stitch into beginning ch, ch 8, {Tr ch 4 in ring}  repeat {to}  6 more times, slip stitch into 4^th ch at beginning. 8 Tr and 8 ch 4 spaces.

Round 2: Slip stitch into ch 4 space, ch 1, {5 sc in ch four space} repeat {to}  till end, slip stitch into first sc. 40 sc.

Round 3: Ch 1, sc in same stitch, {leaf stitch twice (one will be on top of the other) skip 4 sc, and sc in next stitch} repeat  {to}around to end, ending with 2 leaf stitches, slip stitch into beginning sc. 16 leaf stitches.

Round 4: Ch 5, {leaf stitch, tr between two leaf stitches of previous row, picot, leaf stitch, Dtr in sc,} repeat  {to} 6 times, end with leaf stitch, tr between two leaf stitches, picot, leaf stitch, slip stitch into 5^th chain of beginning stitch.

Round 5: Ch 8, {(tr3tog, chain 3 in picot of previous row), repeat  (to) 2 times. Dtr in dtr of previous row, chain 3}  repeat {to}  6 times, tr3tog, chain 3 three times, slip stitch into fifth chain at beginning. 24 tr3tog.

Round 6: Ch 8, (tr in tr3tog of last round, ch 4,) repeat (to) 2 more times, {tr in dtr of last round, (ch 4, tr in next tr3tog)  3 times, ch 4} repeat {to} to end. Slip st. into forth ch of beginning stitch. 

Round 7: Ch 1, slip st into ch space, *3 sc, 4 ch, 3 sc in each ch 4 space* repeat around. Slip st into beginning st. Finish off.

Second and Third Large Motif

Rounds 1- 6: Follow directions from first motif.

Round 7: Ch 1, slip stitch into ch space  {3 sc in ch space, ch 2 take needle out of loop insert needle into corresponding loop of next motif, and back onto the ch 2, draw through, ch 2, 3 sc in same ch 4 space as previous 3 sc.} repeat  {to} 3 more times. {3 sc, ch 4, 3 sc in next ch 4 space} repeat  {to} around. Slip st into beginning st. Finish off. 32 picots altogether, 28 free, 4 connected to first motif.

Fourth Motif

Rounds 1- 6: Follow directions from first motif.

Round 7: Ch 1, slip st into ch space, space {(3 sc in ch space, ch 2 take needle out of loop insert needle into corresponding loop of next motif, and back onto the ch 2, draw through, ch 2, 3 sc in same ch 4 space as previous 3 sc.) repeat (to) 3more times. (3 sc, ch 4, 3 sc) in next ch 4 space repeat (to) 12 times} Repeat starting back to the first repeat. Slip stitch into beginning st. Finish off.

After the fourth motif is made you should have the motifs connected in a circle. Fifth and sixth motifs will go on the top and the bottom.

Fifth and sixth Motif:

Rounds 1-6:

Round 7: Ch 1, slip st into ch space, space {(3 sc in ch space, ch 2 take needle out of loop insert needle into corresponding loop of 1^st motif, and back onto the ch 2, draw through, ch 2, 3 sc in same ch 4 space as previous 3 sc.) repeat (to) 3 more times. (3 sc, ch 4, 3 sc in next ch 4 space) repeat  (to) 3 more times} Repeat {to} 3 more times starting back to the first repeat, slip stitch into beginning st. Finish off.  

Before adding the small motifs, decide which holes will be used for the lamp. One hole will be left completely open, and the hole opposite of this will have the motif that the wiring will go through. Mark these with some string.

Lamp motif

Round 1: Ch 36, join together to form a ring, ch 1, {4 sc in ring, ch 2, take needle out of loop insert needle into the second right loop of one of the large motifs, draw through, ch 2, 4 sc in ring, ch 4}  repeat {to}  around. Slip st into beginning st.  48 sc and six connecting loops and six free loops

Small Motif: Make 6

Round 1: Make an adjustable ring, (ch 4, tr, ch 4, slip st into adjustable ring) 5 times. Ch 4, tr2 tog. Six petals made.

Round 2: Ch 1, sc in same space, ch 6, {sc in next tr, ch 6} repeat around. 6 sc and six 6 ch spaces.

Round 3: Slip st into ch space, ch 1, {4 sc, ch 2, take needle out of loop insert needle into the second right loop of one of the large motifs, draw through, ch 2, 4 sc in same ch 6 space. Ch 4, 4 sc, ch 2, take needle out of loop insert needle into the next loop of same large motif, ch 2, 4 sc in next ch 6 space.ch 4} repeat 2 more times. Slip st into beginning st. Finish off. Six connecting loops, six free loops.

Now it is time to starch the globe

To create the sugar starch required to harden the globe: Combine 1 cup of sugar with ½ cup of water. Heat the mixture on the stove until all of the sugar is dissolved. This will occur prior to the boiling point.

Carefully (due to the heat) soak the globe in the starch. Pull out the globe with tongs and squeeze out any extra starch with the tongs and your fingers (being careful not to burn your fingers). 

Insert the punch ball inside the globe and make sure that the rubber band (which is attached to the punch ball) is “sticking out” of the lamp motif. Blow up the punch ball so that the globe is slightly stretched. Tie a knot in the punch ball. 

Hang the globe up by the rubber band of the punch ball so that it will dry. Place wax paper or something under the globe to catch the dripping water. Air-drying will take approximately three days. 

When the globe is completely hardened, slowly release the air from the punch ball (I used scissors to cut the knot and then slowly pushed my fingers on the balloon so that it would peel off the starched thread. The balloon will be stuck to the thread, due to the hardened starch. Then I pulled the balloon out of the large hole of the globe). Make sure you do this slowly so the globe does not become misshapen.

Follow the manufacturing instructions when putting together the lamp. For fire safety, never use a bulb that is over 15 watts, and do not keep the lamp light “on” for long periods of time.    

More Crochet Patterns You Will Love:

Always Pointing North Blanket

Twists and Bows Cowl

Garden Party Clutch: A Crochet Pattern

I sure do get distracted easily. I told you, my readers that I would slowly move my patterns over from Crochetvolution.com. I really wasn't thinking it would be this slowly. Since it is getting to be wedding season, I thought it would be a good time to bring this free clutch pattern over to the blog. As always it will still be at Crochetvolution . But it's nice to have all my patterns in one spot.

This is a great little bag to keep your essentials in when you need to get glammed up. I was at wedding this weekend and everyone had such fantastic clutches, and I was stuck with my big diaper bag. Oh well, one day I can have it all together.

Don't forget to add this pattern to your favorites on Ravelry. I have also made it available for pdf download for $3.00 through Ravelry. buy now This is a great option if you want a copy that is ads free and easy to print.  

Garden Party Clutch

Size: One Size

Materials:

• Aunt Lydia’s crochet thread Fashion 3 [100% Mercerized cotton; 150yd/137m per skein]; color: white (2 skeins), copper mist (30 yards)
• D/3 (3.25mm) hook
• Tapestry needle
• Straight pins
• 2 toggle buttons

Gauge: Gauge is not significant in this design.

Special Stitches
Picot: Ch 4, sl st in st just made.

Note: The clutch is started at front flap and worked in one piece, with the button straps added last.

Directions:

First flower motif:
R 1: Make an adjustable ring. Ch 1, *sc in ring, ch 8.* Repeat from * to * 3 times, slip stitch into starting sc. (4 sc and 4 ch-8 spaces.)

R 2: Ch 1, *make 12 sc in ch 8 space.* Repeat from * to * 3 times, slip stitch into starting sc.

R 3: Slip st into sc and next sc, ch 1, 1 sc in st just used, sc in next 3 sc, 2 dc in next 2 sc, sc in next 4 dc, skip 2 sc.* Sc in next 4 sc, 2 dc in next two sc, sc in next 4 sc, skip 2 sc.* Repeat from * to * 2 times, sl st into starting sc.

R 4: Working in back loops only, sl st into sc and next sc, ch 1, 1 sc in st just used, sc in next st, [1 hdc and 1 dc] in next dc, picot, 1 dc and 1 hdc in next dc, sc in next 2 st, skip 6 sc, ch 6. *Sc in next 2 st, [1 hdc and 1 dc] in next dc, picot, [1 dc and 1 hdc] in next dc, sc in next 2 st, skip 6 sc, ch 6.* Repeat from * to * two times, sl st into beginning sc. Finish off.

Second and third flower motif:

R 1- 3: Follow the pattern for first flower motif.

R 4: Working in back loops only, sl st into sc and next sc, ch 1, 1 sc in st just used, sc in next st, [1 hdc and 1 dc] in next dc, 1 joining picot, [1 dc and 1 hdc] in next dc, sc in next 2 st, skip 6 sc, ch 3, joining ch, ch 2, sc in next 2 st, 1 hdc and 1 dc in next dc, 1 joining picot, [1 dc and 1 hdc] in next dc, sc in next 2 st, skip 6 sc, ch 6. *Sc in next 2 st, [1 hdc and 1 dc] in next dc, 1 picot, [1 dc and 1 hdc] in next dc, sc in next 2 st, skip 6 sc, ch 6.* Repeat * to * 1 time, sl st into beginning sc. Finish off.

Bag:

Row 1: Starting on the right side of the front side of the joined flower motif (you will be working row 1 across the flowers), *Make sc in next 4 st, make 6 sc in ch 6 sp, sc in next 4 st, 1 sc in each of the picots.* Repeat *to *, sc in next 4 st, 6 sc in ch 6 sp, sc in last 4 st. (46 sc)

Row 2: Ch 3, turn, 1 dc in same st, *[1 sc, 1hdc, and 1 dc] in post of dc just made, skip 2 sc, 1 sc in next st, 1 hdc in next st, 1 dc in next st.* Repeat from * to * to end.

Row 3: Ch 1, turn *sc in dc, hdc in hdc, dc in sc, [1 sc, 1 hdc, and 1 dc] in post of dc just made, skip 3 stitches.* Repeat from * to * to end, sc in dc.

Row 4: Ch 3, turn, 1 dc in same st, *[1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 dc] in post of dc just made, skip the sideways dc, sc in dc, hdc in hdc, dc in sc.* Repeat from * to *.

Repeat rows 3 and 4 till it is 8 inches in height or desired length. Finish off.

Button Straps: (make 2)

Row 1: 6 foundation dc

Row 2: Ch 3, 4 fpdc, dc in 3rd ch of previous row

Row 3: Ch 3, skip 2 fpdc, bpdc in next 2 fpdc, bpdc in skipped fpdc, dc in 3rd ch of previous row.

Repeat rows 2 and 3 till it is 9 inches or desired length. Ch 6, sl st into first st of last row, ch 1, turn, sc evenly around ch. Finish off.

For optional wrist strap, make just like button straps without the chain and sc on the end.

Finishing:
Sew on the two button straps. Each one should fall in between two flowers. Be sure to leave the button holes hanging off the edge of the flower motif. Fold clutch part in half to make the
pocket and whip stitch up the two sides. Sew on the buttons where the button loops fall. Sew on the wrist strap.

More Free Crochet Patterns:

Lacey Shell Fingerless Gloves

Girl Power Backpack