Painted Sunflower

A free Crochet Pattern

Of all of my designs, I think this is one of my favorites. I made this sunflower to hang in my bathroom in 2012 and it is still in my bathroom, even after 4 moves. Yikes lets not talk about how I have moved 4 times in the last 5 years. This is one of the last patterns I am moving over from Crochetvotution . After this pattern there is only one left, and it is a Christmas pattern, so I might wait a little while to put that one up.

There it is hanging in my bathroom for proof.

This pattern is a little unconventional. You don't see crochet projects as stiff wall hangings that have been painted, and I think that's why I like it so much. It is different and it showcases crochet and fiber art in a different way.

This sunflower is easy and fast to work up since you are using 2 strands of cotton thread at the same time. What takes this project time is the drying time for the starch and paint, so don't let the amount of time scare you; it mostly takes that long because it is sitting there drying.

Designer: Julia Schwartz
Time to complete: one week, (3 to 6 hours for the crochet, 48 to 36 hours of drying time, 1 hour of painting, and another 24 hours of drying.)
Hook: size 4/2.00mm steel crochet hook,
Yarn: Size 10 crochet thread (two balls),
Materials used:

• sugar,
• water, 
• wax paper, 
• Folk art acrylic paint Sunny yellow, and burnt sienna), 
• Apple Barrel colors craft paint ( apricot, and goose feather), 
• 2 ½ paint brush 

Finished Size:  11 in. circumference
Crocheting Note: Two strands of string will be used at the same time.
Special stitches:
picot: Chain 4 slip stitch in forth chain from hook.

Copyright: 
Julia Schwartz. Do not reproduce, copy, distribute, or sell this pattern without permission of the designer. This pattern must not be translated, reproduced, or circulated in another language without prior consent. If you have questions about this pattern please contact me through e-mail.

Where Can I Get This Pattern?

This is a Free Crochet Pattern. So just keep scrolling down to find this pattern. I also have this pattern available for a PDF download through my Ravelry Store. For $3.00 you can have this Pattern that is printer friendly and ads free.
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You can purchase through this link or you can start at my Ravelry store.

Painted Sunflower Pattern

Flower center 

Round one: Chain 8, slip stitch into beginning chain to form a ring, ch 3 (counts as first dc), 11 double crochet around ring, slip stitch in beginning chain 3. (12 double crochet made).

Round two: Chain 8, slip stitch in 4th chain from hook (picot made), chain 1, double crochet in starting stitch, {Double crochet, chain 1, picot, chain 1 double crochet in next stitch} repeat {to}until end of round, slip stitch in 3rd chain of beginning stitch. (12 picots)

Round three: Chain 9 slip stitch in 4th chain from hook (picot made), chain 1, 2 treble crochet in next double crochet, picot, treble crochet in next stitch, {chain 1, picot, chain 1, 2 treble crochet in next stitch, picot 1 treble crochet in next stitch} repeat {to} to end of round. End with picot, chain 1, slip stitch in beginning chain 4. (24 picots)

Round four: Chain 6, 1 treble crochet, picot, 1 treble crochet in same stitch, chain 2, skip one treble crochet and one picot, {1 treble crochet, picot, 1 treble crochet in next treble crochet} Repeat {to}to end. End with skip one treble crochet, picot, treble crochet in next treble crochet, slip stitch in 4th chain at beginning. (24 picots)

Round five: Chain 4, 2 treble crochet in chain two, (chain 2, 3treble crochet in next chain two space) repeat around, end with chain two, slip stitch in beginning treble crochet. (24 3 tr groups)

Round six: Chain 1, 1 single crochet in beginning stitch 2 single crochet in next stitch, 1 single crochet in next, 4 single crochet in chain two space, ( 1 single crochet, 2 single crochet in one stitch, 1 single crochet, 4 single crochet in chain two space) Repeat to end slip stitch in beginning stitch.
Do not finish off.

Petals 

First petal
Row one through twelve: Chain 1, 1 single crochet in same stitch, (chain 3 skip one stitch 1 single crochet) Repeat 10 times, chain 1 skip one stitch, 1 half double crochet. You should have twelve loops {chain 3, turn, 1 single crochet in next loop, (chain 3, 1 single crochet in next loop) Repeat (to) 9 times, chain 1, 1 half double crochet in last loop} keep repeating till one loop is left, decreasing one loop each row up,
Finish off.

Second petal through eighth petal:
Insert thread with a slip stitch into last single crochet used in flower center. Follow the directions in petal one.

Edging 

Insert thread with a slip stitch into any chain 2 space on petals, 2 single crochet in each loop around, when you come to the tip 3 single crochet, chain 1, 3 single crochet. When you have gone all the way around, slip stitch into beginning round, finish off.
Weave in all ends.

Starching

 I like using sugar starch.
You will need handy some cardboard covered with wax paper.
Mix 1 cup of sugar with ½ a cup of water, put it over medium heat, and stir it until the sugar melts and becomes translucent, this will happen right before boiling.
Take the starch off of the heat.
Soak your sunflower in the starch, making sure all parts of it is saturated. It will be hot and sticky so take caution when taking it out, ring out or let it drip off all excess starch.
 Place it on the wax paper covered cardboard stretch and pin the center of the flower into a tight circle, Arrange the petals to your liking and make sure all of the picots are standing up.
Depending on the weather it should dry and harden in 48 to 72 hours.

Painting
Starting with the burnt sienna and a ½ brush, paint the center of the flower. When that is dry paint the picots with goose feather, go back with a dry brush and brush on the wet goose feather onto the burnt sienna. Next paint the petals with the apricot, then highlight with the sunny yellow. Allow another 24 hours to dry.

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Welcome to Designs by Diligence. If this is your first time here, I hope you enjoy the patterns and have a good look around. For others welcome back. This is a post that has been long awaited. Some of these patterns are back from 2012. I have been doing a lot of updating this year and all the patterns have been newly updated and reviewed. Just click on the picture or link that you like to find the free patterns. 

If you like what you see I would encourage you to subscribe to Designs by Diligence.
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Minnesota layette Set

• blanket
• hat
• sweater

This is a great beginner blanket for those that are wanting to add more color and learn some new stitches. After the blanket try the hat and the sweater. The sweater is easier than you think with it's easy construction and design.

The Love Patch
This patch can be added to any hat, garment or bag, and it does not even need to be for a baby. This is a quick project that adds a lot of pizzazz to your finished project.

Tulips Aplenty Dress
This is a sweet little dress that comes in 3 size options. The yarn used is Simply Soft and and it is so comfortable and easy to adjust to fit your little one.

Bullion Butterfly beanie
This is another great beginner pattern. It is a basic beanie with a statement of bullion stitches at the end. Follow the picture tutorial for the bullion butterfly. 

Infant Hat in Simple Cables 
This is the most loved pattern that I have on Ravelry. This is my go to pattern for baby shower gifts. I can't tell you how many complements I have gotten for this hat. Mom's tell me that it is the perfect fit for their newborn. 

Peek a boo striped blanket 
This is one of my favorite patterns. pick two solid colors and one omber color and then watch the magic happen as the texture of this blanket come alive.

Primrose Newborn Hat
This is a sweet little fairy pattern, that has an added layer of warmth to it because of the back post stitches.

Curling Baby Set

• hat
• diaper cover
• booties

This is the most looked at pattern on the blog. The cabled stitches really make this set stand out. Try two colors like the picture or keep it all one color the choice is yours.

What Pattern will you try. Tell me in the comments! Do you have any go to baby patterns that you love? Let us know.  

Iris Crochet Edging

  A Free Crochet Pattern

Sometimes you have to join two worlds to make something great. I had an idea in my head and it just needed knit and crochet to make it happen. I wanted a cowl with a beautiful drape, and with a feminine lace to finish it off.   I also wanted something light for those cool late summer nights that happen here in Toronto because of the lake.

Light and with lots of drape meant this was going to be a knit cowl. I wanted the lace to come to points, and with knitting you can be pretty limited on coming to points, so that means the lace would have to be crochet.

Then I was in a conundrum. How would I promote my new pattern? Most sites want either knit or crochet not both at the same time. So I have decided to promote just the edging.

The cowl is a perfect pattern for someone who crochets and is wanting to try out knitting. There is no easier knitting pattern out there. Just cast on the amount of stitches you want and then knit until you reach 30 inches.

The crochet edging is a simple shell pattern. The only stitches used are sc, dc, ch, and picot. Lace doesn't have to be complicated to look beautiful. Another great part of this lace is that you can make it as long as you like. The body of the lace is a 2 row pattern repeat that ends with a big finish to really make it stand out.

  


Designer Julia Schwartz
Yarn: 100% Merino Wool: Lace weight, color beige
Hook: 00/3.5mm Steel hook
Notions: yarn needle
Size: minimum height is 2 ½ inches
Gauge: 2 shells and 6 rows is 2 inches
Special Stitches:
Picot: Ch 3, sl st into the st just completed.

Notes: The cowl is worked with a knit garter stitch. the needles were US 7/ 4.5mm. I cast on 40 stitches using the twisted German cast on and I knit stitched til it was 30 inches long. I then wip stitched the two ends together. The edging is worked with crochet.

Copyright: Julia Schwartz. 
Do not reproduce, copy, distribute, or sell this pattern without permission of the designer. This pattern must not be translated, reproduced, or circulated in another language without prior consent. If you have questions about this pattern please contact Julia.diligence@gmail.com.

 

Purchase This Pattern

This is a free Pattern! Keep scrolling down to see this free crochet pattern.

If you would like to purchase a printer friendly, ads free version there is one available in my Ravelry Store. Most of my patterns are $3.00.
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Edging Pattern: 

Row 1: Attach yarn with a ch, sc in same st, {ch 3, sk 2 st, sc in the next st}, Repeat {to} till the end of the row, sl st into starting sc.

Row 2: Sl st into first ch 3 loop, ch 1, {sc in the ch 3 loop, (5 dc) in the next ch 3 loop (shell made)}, Repeat {to} til the end of the row, sl st in to the beg. St.

Row 3: Ch 3, {sk 2 dc, (sc, ch 3, sc) in next dc, (dc, ch 3, dc) in the next sc}, Repeat {to} till last shell, (sc, ch 3, sc) in middle dc of shell, (dc, ch 3) in the last sc, sl st in beg. St.

Row 4: Sl St in to ch 3 sp. On top of shell, ch 1, sc in same sp, (5 dc) in next ch 3 sp, {sc in the next ch 3 sp, (5dc) in the next ch 3 sp} Repeat {to} till the end of the row, sl st into first sc.

Continue repeating Row 3 and 4 till 1 inch from desired length of edging.

Row 5: Ch 3, {sk 2 dc, (sc, ch 7, sc) in next dc, (dc, ch 3, dc) in the next sc}, repeat {to} till last shell, (sc, ch 7, sc) in middle dc of shell, (dc, ch 3) in last sc, sl st in beg. St.

Row 6: Sl st into ch 7 sp, ch 3, (5 dc, picot, 5 dc) in the ch 7 sp, {sc in the ch 3 sp, (6 dc, picot, 5 dc) in ch 7 sp} repeat {to} the end of the row, sc in the last ch 3 sp, sl st into the first ch 3.

Finish off. Weave in your ends.

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Your Slip is Showing Crochet Edging



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Pin For Later!

Minnesota Layette Set

A Free Crochet Pattern Pack

I'm Bringing over another pattern (or three) from the Crochetvolution files. I debated on if I would divide this one up or not but I decided to keep them together. I am making them available in my Ravelry Store as an ebook download. And it is huge coming in at 6 pages. It is also here on the blog so just keep scrolling down to read the pattern.
 Ravelry Store

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Materials:

• Lion Brand Pound of love [100 % Acrylic; 1020yd/932m per skein]; color: beige; baby blue [1,1]skeins
• H/8 (5.00mm) hook
• 4 small buttons
• Yarn Needle

Size: Blanket – Toddler size, Hat – Newborn, Sweater – Newborn

Finished Measurements:
Hat: 14″ circumference
Sweater: Chest – 16 inches
Gauge: 12 dc/5 rows = 4″

Note: Every two rows you will be switching colors. If you want to keep the long sc as the same color underneath it you will make 2 rows one color then switch. If you would like to have the long sc a
different color than what is underneath start with one color, in row 2 switch colors, then start switching
colors every 2 rows.

Special Stitches
Popcorn stitch: make 4 dc in space indicated, sl st into first of 4 dc made
Long sc: In the indicated stitch make a sc in post of stitch indicated in pattern (usually two or three rows down), pulling your strings up to meet the row you are working in making the sc long. Skip the st in the row you are working that you would normally work in(unless the pattern says otherwise like in the hat pattern).

Directions:

Blanket

 

Row 1: With beige, fdc 110.

Row 2: (Right side) Sc in each stitch across.

Row 3: Switch colors without finishing off, continuing to carry it up at every change (continue doing this throughout the layette set unless told otherwise). Ch 3 (counts as dc here and throughout), dc in next 4 dc, {popcorn st in next st, dc in next 10 st.}Repeat  {to} 8 times, popcorn st, dc in next 5 dc (10 popcorn st.)

Row 4: Ch 1, turn. Sc in same st, sc in next 3 st. {Long sc around post of dc below st in row 1, skip sc you would have gone in, sc in next st, long sc around post of dc below st in row 1,skip sc you would
have gone in, sc in next 8 stitches.} Repeat {to} 8 times, long sc, sc ,long sc, sc in next 3 st.

Row 5: Change color. Dc in each st across.

Row 6: Ch 1, turn. Sc in same st, sc in next 3 st. {Long sc around post of long sc of previous row, skip sc you would have gone in, sc in next stitch, long sc around post of long sc of previous row, skip sc you would have gone in, sc in next 8 st.} Repeat {to} 8 times, long sc, sc, long sc, sc in next 3 st.

Row 7: Switch colors without finishing off, continuing to carry it up at every change. Ch 3, dc in next 4 dc, {popcorn st in next st, dc in next 10 st.}  Repeat {to} 8 times, popcorn st, dc in next 5 dc (10 popcorn st.)

Row 8: Repeat Row 6.

Row 9 to end: Repeat Rows 5-8, finishing with Row 6 in beige at Row 118.

Edging:

Rnd 1: Switch to blue; do not turn. Ch 1, sc in same st. Working down the long side, make 1 sc in each sc and 2 sc in each dc, working your way to the corner. In the corner make 3 sc. Continue making sc in each st across, making 3 sc in each corner, at the end make one sc in same st as the first sc, sl st into first sc to join.

Rnd 2: Ch 5, 2 dc in same st, dc in each st around. At corner st, make 2dc, ch 2, 2 dc. Continue around to beginning st, 1 dc in first st, sl st in beginning dc. Finish off.

Hat

 

Rnd 1: Ch 4, join with sl st in first ch to form a ring. Ch 1, make 8 sc in ring, sl st into first sc. (8 sc)

Rnd 2: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in same st, 2 dc in each st around, sl st into first st. (16 dc)

Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc in same st. {Make 2 sc in next st, sc in next st.} Repeat {to} around, ending with 2 sc, sl st into first sc. (24 sc)

Rnd 4: Ch 3, dc in next sc. {Make 2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 2 st.}  Repeat {to} around ending with 2 dc, sl st into first sc. (32 dc)

Rnd 5: Change color, ch 1, sc in same st and in next 3. Long sc into post of corresponding dc in round 2, {sc in the st you would have skipped, sc in next 3 st, skipping 1 dc, long sc into next dc}, repeat {to} around, sl st into first sc. (40 sc)

Rnd 6: Change colors, ch 3, dc in next 3 st, 2 dc in long sc.{Dc in next 4 st, 2 dc in long sc} repeat {to} around, sl st into first st. (48dc)

Rnd 7: Ch 1, sc in same st and in each st around, sl st into first sc. (48 sc)

Rnd 8: Ch 3, dc in each st around, sl st into first st.

Rnd 9: Change colors, ch 1, sc in same st, and in next 2, long sc into dc of row 6, skip sc that you would have worked into, {sc in 3 sc, long sc into dc of row 6, skip sc that you would have worked into (there will be 3 dc in-between the long sc’s.)} repeat {to} around, sl st into first sc. (12 long sc)

Rnd 10: Repeat Rnd 8.

Rnd 11: Change colors, ch 1, sc in same st and in next 2. Long sc into post of long sc of previous row, {sc in 3 sc, long sc} repeat {to} around, sl st into first st.

Rnds 12-17: Repeat Rnds 10-11. Follow picture for when to change colors. Rounds 5, 6, 9, 12,
13, 15, 16, 17, are the rounds that you will change. Finish off and weave in all ends.

Sweater

 

Note: Switch colors every two rows. If you want to keep the long sc as the same color underneath it you will make 2 rows one color then switch. If you would like to have the long sc a
different color than what is underneath start with one color, in row 2 switch colors, then start switching colors every 2 rows. Make note that doing it this way your colors will not match up when you sew up the seams of the sweater.

Row 1: Make 32 fdc.

Row 2: Ch 1, turn (right side). Sc in same st and sc in each st across. (32 st.)

Row 3: Ch 3 (counts as dc here and throughout) turn, dc in next st and each st across. (32 st)

Row 4: Ch 1, turn, sc in same st, and sc in next 3 sc. {Make 1 long sc around corresponding dc in row 1, skip sc that you would have gone in, sc in next sc, long sc around corresponding dc in row 1}, sc in next 18 sc. Repeat {to} , sc in next 4 st. (28 sc 4 long sc)

Row 5: Repeat Row 3.

Row 6: Ch 1, turn. Sc in same st, and sc in next 3 sc. {Make 1 long sc around post of corresponding long sc of last row, skip sc that you would have gone in, sc in next sc, long sc around post of corresponding long sc of last row}, sc in next 7 sc, long sc in next st, sc in next 2 sc, long sc, sc in next 7 sc, repeat {to}, sc in next 4 st. ( 26 sc, 6 long sc)

Row 7-12: Repeat Rows 5 and 6.

Row 13: Repeat Row 3.

Row 14: Ch 17, turn sc in each ch across. Repeat row 4, make 14 fsc.

Row 15: Repeat row 3. (66 st)

Row 16: Ch 1, turn, sc in same st and in next 20 st. Make long sc, sc, long sc, sc in next 18 sc. Make long sc, sc, long sc, sc in last 21 st. (62 sc, 4 long sc)

Row 17: Repeat Row 15.

Row 18: Ch 1, turn, sc in same st, sc in next 20 sc, long sc, sc, long sc, sc in next 3 sc. Leaving all other spaces empty, start next row. (This will be considered the right side.) (27 st)

Row 19: Ch 3. Dc in each st across.

Row 20- 23: Repeat Rows 18 and 19.

Row 24: Ch 1, turn, sc in same st, sc in next 20 sc, long sc, sc, long sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 fsc

Row 25: Repeat Row 19. (29 st)

Row 26: Ch 1, turn, sc in same st, sc in next 20 sc, long sc, sc, long sc, sc in next 5 sc, make 2 fsc.

Row 27: Repeat Row 19. (31 st)

Row 28: Ch 1. turn, sc in same st, sc in next 20 sc, long sc, sc, long sc, sc in next 3 sc, long sc in dc of row 25, sc in next 3 sc, make 2 fsc.

Row 29: Repeat Row 19. (33 st)

Row 30: Ch 1, turn, sc in same st, sc in next 20 sc, long sc, sc, long sc, sc in next 3 sc, long sc, sc, long sc in dc of 27, sc in next 3 sc.

Row 31: Ch 3, dc in next 15 st. (16 st)

Row 32: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 3 sc,* long sc, sc, long sc, sc in next 3 sc,* repeat.

Row 33- 42: Repeat Rows 31 and 32. Finish off.

Left Side:

 

Starting back at Row 18, skip 12 unused dc, join with beige with a sc, sc in next 2 st, long sc, sc, long sc,sc in next 20 sc.

Row 19: Ch 3 turn, dc in each st across.

Row 20: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 2 st, long sc, sc, long sc, sc in next 21 sc.

Row 21: Repeat Row 19.

Row 22: Repeat Row 20.

Row 23: Repeat Row 19.

Row 24: Ch 3, turn, sc in second ch from hook, and next ch, sc in next 3 sc, long sc, sc, long sc, sc in next 21 st.

Row 25: Repeat Row 19.

Row 26: Ch 3, turn, sc in second ch from hook, and next ch, sc in next 5 sc, long sc, sc, long sc, sc in next 21 st.

Row 27: Repeat Row 19.

Row 28: Ch 3, turn, sc in 2nd ch from hook, and next ch, sc in next 3 sc, long sc into dc from row 25, sc in next 3 sc, long sc, sc, long sc, sc in next 21 st.

Row 29: Repeat Row 19.

Row 30: Ch 1, turn, sc in same st, sc in next 3 st, long sc into dc of row 27, sc, long sc into long sc, sc in next 3 sc, long sc, sc, long sc, sc in next 21 st. Finish off both colors.

Row 31: Turn. Skip 16 sc, join and ch 3 in next st, dc in next st across.

Row 32: Ch 1, sc in same st, *sc in next 3 sc, long sc, sc, long sc* repeat *to * sc in next 3 sc.

Row 33: Ch 3 in next st, dc in next st across.

Row 34-42: Repeat Rows 32 and 33.

Finishing: Fold sweater along sleeves and sew up the sides and the arms.

Sleeve Edging:

Rnd 1: Join with a sc at the left side of the seam with the right side facing. Make an even amount of sc around the sleeve, making sure to weave in the loose yarn ends as you go around. Sl st into first sc.

Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in each sc around. Sl st in beginning sc, finish off.
Repeat for other sleeve.

Sweater Edging:

Rnd 1: Starting at bottom of the sweater (so you will work your way up the collar and around with right side facing), ch 1. Make 2 sc in same st, make 2 sc in each dc post, 1 sc in each sc post. Repeat till collar. Working around collar sc in each st, but skip the posts. Continue to make 1 sc equally around till you come to the first st, sl st into first sc.

Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 2 sc. {Ch 2, sk 2 sc, sc in next 3 sc}.  Repeat {to} 3 more times, continue making 1 sc in each sc. On corner spaces make 3 sc. At end of round, sl st into first sc, finish off. Weave in all ends. Add buttons to match up with the button holes.

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Crafty Containers

A Free Crochet Pattern

 Do you need a simple storage solution for your desk or shelves? This is a very easy project that can be done in a short amount of time. It uses an oatmeal container and some simple crocheting skills. They are sturdy and once you are done you cannot tell that they used to take up space in your pantry!

The Crafty Containers are another pattern that I am moving over from Crochetvolution. For this project I knew I wanted to make new samples and pictures. I chose bright colors in worsted cotton this time.

I still use these containers after 3 years, so it was time for an update. They sit at my sewing desk. The larger container is perfect for my Granny's old knitting needles. And the smaller container is perfect for hooks and loose notions.

Don't forget to add this pattern to your favorites on Ravelry.

Difficulty: Easy
Size: 18 oz oatmeal container cut to the size you would like
Materials:

• Any 4-ply worsted weight yarn in 2 colors 
• H/8 (5.00mm size) hook
• A cleaned out 18 oz oatmeal container

Gauge: After the first four rounds it should be the same size as the bottom of the container

Note: You can cut your container down to a size that you like but make sure you cut it down by inches. Also this will affect how many rows you will crochet.

Directions:

Outer layer

Round 1: With Color1, ch 4, make 9 dc in the 4th ch (the rest of the chs form the first dc) from hook, sl st into beg dc for a total of 10 dc.

Round 2: Ch 3 (counts as first dc here and throughout), dc in the same st, {make 2 dc in the next dc.} Repeat from *{to} 8 more times, sl st into beg st. (20dc)

Round 3: Ch 3, {make 2 dc in the next st, 1 dc in the next st.} Repeat from {to} 8 times, make 2 dc in last st, sl st in beg st. (30dc)

Round 4: Ch 1, sc in the same st, sc in the next st, make 2 sc in the next st. {Sc in the next 2 sts, make 2 sc in the next st}. Repeat from {to} 8 times, sl st into beg sc. (40 sc)

Round 5: Working in back loops only, ch 3. Dc in each st around, sl st into beg dc. (40 dc)

Rounds 6-17 (or till you reach the top of the container): Ch 3; dc in each st around, sl st into beg dc. (40 dc) At the end of your last row, finish off.

Inner layer

With Color 2, repeat Rnds 1-17 of Outer Layer (do not finish off). Insert the inner layer into the container and slip the outer layer over the container. Match up your edges, and crochet the two layers together in the next row.

Round 18: Ch 1, sc in the same st. Sc in each st around, sl st into beg sc. (40 sc)

Round 19: Ch 1, sc in the same st, sc in the next st. Sk 2 sc, ch 4. {Sc in the next 2 sc, sk 2 sc, ch 4}. Repeat from {to} 8 times, sl st into beg sc. (20 sc and 10 ch-sp)

Round 20: Sl st into the next sc and into the ch-sp, ch 1. {(Sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc) into the ch-sp}. Repeat from {to} 9 times, sl st into beg sc. (10 petals)

Round 21: Sl st into the next 2 sts, ch 1. {Sc in the dc, ch 4}. Repeat from  {to} 9 times, sl st into the beg sc. (10 ch-sp)

Round 22: Sl st into the ch-sp, ch 1. {(Sc, hdc, dc, ch 3, sl st into dc (picot made), hdc, sc) into the ch-sp}. Repeat from {to} 9 times, sl st into beg sc. (10 petals with picots) Finish off and weave in your ends, fold edge down over outside of container.

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Bohemian Charms Necklace Remake

Remember that necklace design in the top left corner? Or maybe you are new here, Welcome!

I wanted to show you some more options for the Bohemian Charms Crochet Necklace. Isn't it great that with one simple pattern and a little creativity the options for this necklace pattern are endless. Let's take a closer look at each one. 

 Here is the original one. All of the charms are clustered together on one chain with jump rings.

 For this one decided to separate them a little. I connected the mini doily to one end of a 25 in chain with a jump ring. Then I slipped the other end of the chain through the side of the doily and I connected the 2 inch chain of charms to the end of the 25 inch chain.

For this one I divided a 24 inch chain in half and added a lobster clasp to one side and the mini doily to the other side. The other chain half I added a jump ring, and three beads connected together with their jewelry pins. I added 3 4 inch chains to each of the beads and connected them together with a jump ring at the side of the mini doily.

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Goddess of Hospitality Headband

Garden Party Clutch: A Crochet Pattern

I sure do get distracted easily. I told you, my readers that I would slowly move my patterns over from Crochetvolution.com. I really wasn't thinking it would be this slowly. Since it is getting to be wedding season, I thought it would be a good time to bring this free clutch pattern over to the blog. As always it will still be at Crochetvolution . But it's nice to have all my patterns in one spot.

This is a great little bag to keep your essentials in when you need to get glammed up. I was at wedding this weekend and everyone had such fantastic clutches, and I was stuck with my big diaper bag. Oh well, one day I can have it all together.

Don't forget to add this pattern to your favorites on Ravelry. I have also made it available for pdf download for $3.00 through Ravelry. buy now This is a great option if you want a copy that is ads free and easy to print.  

Garden Party Clutch

Size: One Size

Materials:

• Aunt Lydia’s crochet thread Fashion 3 [100% Mercerized cotton; 150yd/137m per skein]; color: white (2 skeins), copper mist (30 yards)
• D/3 (3.25mm) hook
• Tapestry needle
• Straight pins
• 2 toggle buttons

Gauge: Gauge is not significant in this design.

Special Stitches
Picot: Ch 4, sl st in st just made.

Note: The clutch is started at front flap and worked in one piece, with the button straps added last.

Directions:

First flower motif:
R 1: Make an adjustable ring. Ch 1, *sc in ring, ch 8.* Repeat from * to * 3 times, slip stitch into starting sc. (4 sc and 4 ch-8 spaces.)

R 2: Ch 1, *make 12 sc in ch 8 space.* Repeat from * to * 3 times, slip stitch into starting sc.

R 3: Slip st into sc and next sc, ch 1, 1 sc in st just used, sc in next 3 sc, 2 dc in next 2 sc, sc in next 4 dc, skip 2 sc.* Sc in next 4 sc, 2 dc in next two sc, sc in next 4 sc, skip 2 sc.* Repeat from * to * 2 times, sl st into starting sc.

R 4: Working in back loops only, sl st into sc and next sc, ch 1, 1 sc in st just used, sc in next st, [1 hdc and 1 dc] in next dc, picot, 1 dc and 1 hdc in next dc, sc in next 2 st, skip 6 sc, ch 6. *Sc in next 2 st, [1 hdc and 1 dc] in next dc, picot, [1 dc and 1 hdc] in next dc, sc in next 2 st, skip 6 sc, ch 6.* Repeat from * to * two times, sl st into beginning sc. Finish off.

Second and third flower motif:

R 1- 3: Follow the pattern for first flower motif.

R 4: Working in back loops only, sl st into sc and next sc, ch 1, 1 sc in st just used, sc in next st, [1 hdc and 1 dc] in next dc, 1 joining picot, [1 dc and 1 hdc] in next dc, sc in next 2 st, skip 6 sc, ch 3, joining ch, ch 2, sc in next 2 st, 1 hdc and 1 dc in next dc, 1 joining picot, [1 dc and 1 hdc] in next dc, sc in next 2 st, skip 6 sc, ch 6. *Sc in next 2 st, [1 hdc and 1 dc] in next dc, 1 picot, [1 dc and 1 hdc] in next dc, sc in next 2 st, skip 6 sc, ch 6.* Repeat * to * 1 time, sl st into beginning sc. Finish off.

Bag:

Row 1: Starting on the right side of the front side of the joined flower motif (you will be working row 1 across the flowers), *Make sc in next 4 st, make 6 sc in ch 6 sp, sc in next 4 st, 1 sc in each of the picots.* Repeat *to *, sc in next 4 st, 6 sc in ch 6 sp, sc in last 4 st. (46 sc)

Row 2: Ch 3, turn, 1 dc in same st, *[1 sc, 1hdc, and 1 dc] in post of dc just made, skip 2 sc, 1 sc in next st, 1 hdc in next st, 1 dc in next st.* Repeat from * to * to end.

Row 3: Ch 1, turn *sc in dc, hdc in hdc, dc in sc, [1 sc, 1 hdc, and 1 dc] in post of dc just made, skip 3 stitches.* Repeat from * to * to end, sc in dc.

Row 4: Ch 3, turn, 1 dc in same st, *[1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 dc] in post of dc just made, skip the sideways dc, sc in dc, hdc in hdc, dc in sc.* Repeat from * to *.

Repeat rows 3 and 4 till it is 8 inches in height or desired length. Finish off.

Button Straps: (make 2)

Row 1: 6 foundation dc

Row 2: Ch 3, 4 fpdc, dc in 3rd ch of previous row

Row 3: Ch 3, skip 2 fpdc, bpdc in next 2 fpdc, bpdc in skipped fpdc, dc in 3rd ch of previous row.

Repeat rows 2 and 3 till it is 9 inches or desired length. Ch 6, sl st into first st of last row, ch 1, turn, sc evenly around ch. Finish off.

For optional wrist strap, make just like button straps without the chain and sc on the end.

Finishing:
Sew on the two button straps. Each one should fall in between two flowers. Be sure to leave the button holes hanging off the edge of the flower motif. Fold clutch part in half to make the
pocket and whip stitch up the two sides. Sew on the buttons where the button loops fall. Sew on the wrist strap.

More Free Crochet Patterns:

Lacey Shell Fingerless Gloves

Girl Power Backpack

Party Cowl

 A Free Crochet Pattern

Are you in need of a quick last minute crochet gift. I have an easy cowl pattern for you.

I first came up with this pattern when I was asked to come up with some class ideas for when I was teaching crochet lessons at the art studio that I work at. We wanted to have some options for when students wanted to have a birthday party or shower at the studio. The idea was that each student that was participating in the party would learn how to make one strand of the cowl, then at the end of the lesson we would put it all together and give it as a gift to the host of the party.

This cowl is easy enough for a beginner and it can be worked up in any yarn or weight. There are a lot of possibilities. Each strand could be a different color or size. I am excited to see what other creative ways you can make this cowl.

Pattern

Yarn: Lion Brand: Homespun, bulky,  6.00 oz./170 g (185 yd/169 m): Cherry Blossom

Hook: size I/ 9 5.50MM

Notions: 1 button, thread, sewing needle.

Gauge: Each yo-yo is 3 in. The band is 3 inches by 12 inches.

Special stitches:

Picot: ch 4, sl st into st just made.
Joining picot: ch 2, sl st into picot of previous yo-yo, ch 2, sl st into st just made.

Notes: The cowl is made by making individual strands of yo-yos, that are formed into large loops. When you have the desired amount of strands you put them inside a band that is also crocheted.

Yo-yo strand

First yo-yo: With an adjustable ring, ch 3 (counts as the first dc here and throughout), (4 dc, picot, 10 dc, picot, 5 dc) in the adjustable ring, pull the ring tight and sl st into the first dc, for a total of 20 dc. Finish off. Weave in your ends.

2nd- 6th yo-yo: With an adjustable ring, ch 3, (4 dc, joining picot, 10 dc, picot, 5 dc) in the adjustable ring, pull the ring tight and sl st into the first dc. for a total of 20 dc. Finish off. Weave in your ends

Last yo-yo: With an adjustable ring, ch 3, (4 dc, joining picot, 10 dc, joining picot with the first yo-yo, to close up your loop, 5 dc) in the adjustable ring, pull the ring tight and sl st into the first dc. For a total of 20 dc. Finish off. Weave in your ends.

Continue making yo-yo strands till you have your desired amount. The model shown has 4 strands.

The band

Row 1: Ch 9, sc in the second ch from hook, sc in each ch across for a total of 8 sc.
Row 2: Ch 3, turn, dc in each sc across for a total of 8 dc.
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc in each dc across for a total of 8 sc.
Rows 4-15: Repeat rows 2 and 3.
Row 16: Repeat row 2.
Row 17: Ch 1, sc in the next 3 dc, ch 2, sk 2 dc, sc in the next 3 dc. (button hole just made.)
Row 18: Ch 3, dc in the next 2 sc, 2 dc in the ch 2 sp, 3 dc in the last 3 sc. Finish off. Weave in your ends.

Assembly

Add your button to the band using a needle and thread. Put the strand loops in the band and close the band up with the button.

More Free Crochet Patterns You Will Love

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