Monday, December 7, 2020

Winthrop Basket

 A Free Crochet Pattern



Some of the best advice I have gotten in my creative business is, "when you have a creative block go back to what you already know and build off of what you have already done." So for me a lot of the time that looks like re-using a stitch pattern or if I have a hat pattern I will try and make a cowl or gloves to go with the hat. 

This past month has brought a lot of extra stress. My Grandpa passed away after a stroke, there has been some other deaths and sickness from friends, one of my daughter's was having a lot of things going on at school and our little county of 34,000 has a positivity rate of 13% for covid testing. That is all the stress of last month. Traditionally November is my busiest time for my blog. I think that is pretty normal for most fiber arts blogs. All of this resulted in my crashing and burning of creativity. 

So I went back to what I know. I looked through my past patterns and found something that I could recreate into something fresh. I came up with the Winthrop Basket. 


Do you recognize the stitch pattern? It is from the Tree Farm Cowl. I had bought some Lion brand Rewind yarn. I thought it would be like t-shirt yarn that I could use for straps on masks. When it came it was very apparent that it was not t-shirt yarn. But it is very light and soft and when it is worked up it feels like felt. I thought it would be perfect for baskets. I'm pretty sure I am right. 


I hope you enjoy these baskets as much as I do.  I'm going as simple as possible for Christmas this year, brown paper bags for gift wrap and red yarn for ribbon. I'm going to use these baskets too. I think I will have the girl's Christmas jammies in them to open Christmas eve. 


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Designer: Julia Schwartz
Yarn: 
  • For BasketLion Brand Yarn: Rewind Tape Yarn, 5 Bulky, 70% Polyester 30% viscose, 219 yards and 100g.  
  • For handles: Lion Brand Yarn: Re-up, 4/ worsted, 100% cotton, 100g. (only 25g needed)
Hook: 
  • For Basket: J/10 6mm (I'm a really loose crocheter so you might have to choose a larger hook to get gauge)
  • For handles: G/7 4.5mm
Notions: Tapestry needle
Size: 30 inch circumference, 7 inch height 
Gauge: 12 st x 14 rows = 4 inches
Stitches Used: Chain (ch), Single crochet (sc), Slip Stitch (sl st), Front Post Double Crochet (fpdc), Double crochet stitch (dc), Front post double treble crochet (fpdtc)
Special stitches:
  • fpdtr: yo 3 times, insert hook around desired stitch from front to back, yo and pull through for a total of 5 loops on the hoop, (yo and pull through 2 loops) 4 times.
Edited 1/6/21 correction made on row 15 for dc to say st instead. Rows 17 and 18 added for extra clarification. 

Copyright: Julia Schwartz.

Do not reproduce, copy, distribute, or sell this pattern without permission of the designer. This pattern must not be translated, reproduced, or circulated in another language without prior consent. If you have questions about this pattern please contact Julia.diligence@gmail.com.




Purchase this Pattern


This is a free crochet pattern on the blog. Just keep scrolling down to see this pattern. By having it free on the blog I am able to promote the pattern more and share it with more people. I also feel that I bring some trust to my readers who can read through the pattern before they decide if they want to purchase the pattern.

If you would like to purchase this pattern that is ads free and printer friendly, it is available for Download through my Ravelry Store For $3.00. For the first week you can get it for $1.00 (usd). 


I also have the PDF for sale at Love crafts. It is a a little higher price at $3.60. This helps cover the fees that come with posting the pattern on that site. 



Pattern Instructions


Round 1: Ch 2, 8 sc in 2nd ch from the hook, sl st into starting st to complete the round. (8 sc)

Round 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in starting st, 2 sc in each stitch, for a total of 16 sc, sl st into starting st. (16 sc)

Round 3: Ch 1, sc in first st, 2 sc in the next st, (sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st), repeat (to), to the last st. sl st into starting st. (24 sts)

Round 4: Ch 1, sc in each of the first 2 sts, 2 sc in the next st, (sc in each of the next 2 sts, 2 sc in the next st), repeat (to), to the last st. sl st into starting st. (32 sts)

Round 5: Ch 1, sc in each of the first 3 sts, 2 sc in the next st, (sc in each of the next 3 sts, 2 sc in the next st), repeat (to), to the last st. sl st into starting st. (40 sts)

Round 6: Ch 1, sc in each of the first 4 sts, 2 sc in the next st, (sc in each of the next 4 sts, 2 sc in the next st), repeat (to), to the last st. sl st into starting st. (48 sts)

Round 7: Ch 1, sc in each of the first 5 sts, 2 sc in the next st, (sc in each of the next 5 sts, 2 sc in the next st), repeat (to), to the last st. sl st into starting st. (56 sts)

Round 8: Ch 1, sc in each of the first 6 sts, 2 sc in the next st, (sc in each of the next 6 sts, 2 sc in the next st), repeat (to), to the last st. sl st into starting st. (64 sts)

Round 9: Ch 1, sc in each of the first 7 sts, 2 sc in the next st, (sc in each of the next 7 sts, 2 sc in the next st), repeat (to), to the last st. sl st into starting st. (72 sts)

Round 10: Ch 1, (sc in the next 23 sts, 2 sc in the next st), repeat (to) 2x, sl st into starting st. (75 sts)

Round 11-14: Ch 1, sc in each st in the round for a total of 75 sts, sl st into the starting st. (75 sts)

Round 15: Ch 3, *(fpdtr around next sc 2 rows down, dc in next sc) repeat (to) 2 times, sk 3 sts, fpdtr in the next st 2 rows down, sk the st behind the fpdtr just made, {dc in each of the next  4 sts, fpdtr in the st 2 rows below right next to the fpdtr previously made, fpdtr in the next st 2 rows below, skip  2 sts behind the fptdc sts just made} repeat {to}, dc in the next 4 sts, fpdtr in the st 2 rows below right next to the fpdtr previously made, sk st behind the fpdtr just made, dc in the next st,* Repeat *to* 2 times. Sl st into starting st. (Note on last repeat the last dc is not needed) (75 sts) 

Round 16: Ch 3 (counts as first dc here and throughout), dc in each dc, sl st in to first dc. (75 sts)

Round 17: Ch 3, *(fpdtr around the fpdtr, dc in next st) repeat (to) 2 times, sk 3 sts, fpdtr in the next st 2 rows down, sk the st behind the fpdtr just made, {dc in each of the next  4 sts, fpdtr in the st 2 rows below right next to the fpdtr previously made, fpdtr in the next st 2 rows below, skip  2 sts behind the fptdc sts just made} repeat {to}, dc in the next 4 sts, fpdtr in the st 2 rows below right next to the fpdtr previously made, sk st behind the fpdtr just made, dc in the next st,* Repeat *to* 2 times. Sl st into starting st. (Note on last repeat the last dc is not needed) (75 sts) 

Round 18: Ch 3, dc in each dc, sl st in to first dc. (75 sts)

Repeat rounds 17 and 18 5x

Last round: Ch 1, reverse sc in each stitch in the round for a total of 75 sts, sl st into starting st. 

Finish off. 

Handles (Make 2)

5 loop i-cord: Make a slip knot, ch 5, yo and pull through a loop in each ch, (5 loops on the hook), {take the back 4 loops off the hook and put them on the cable needle, (yo and pull through one loop on the hook, take the next st off the cable needle and onto your hook) repeat (to) 4 x}, repeat {to} until you have you have 8 inches of cording. Cut a yarn and pull the tail through the loops to close them up.

Follow the picture and pull the cording through the baskets where you want the handles. Then knot the cording to secure in place.

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1 comment:

  1. I love this! At first on the link, I thought it was a purse. Think about doing a purse too.

    ReplyDelete